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A lamb shoulder with tongue has a kind of corned-beef quality to it. Which is fine. In fact, it's an accomplishment of sorts, being a totally new take on this cut of meat. But something is lost in the alchemy of Voltaggio's cooking here, namely that tender, dripping, rich, lamby thing that makes lamb so seductive. This dish was cool and interesting, and yet I had no desire to finish it.
But, ah, there are places where Voltaggio's impulse, to push past what's always been good, to harness that thing and make it anew, is just plain brilliant. This philosophy extends to the cocktail list, where gin and vermouth tussle with carrot and ginger for an utterly refreshing (in both senses of the word), utterly winning combination, and to sweets, where everything you've ever loved about apple desserts — the crunch, the nut, the pastry, the caramel, the apple — are pulled apart and put back together in strange ways, then scattered across a plate like a great apple tundra. There are times, at ink., where you just want to get up out of your seat and turn to the glowing stage and give a hearty round of applause.
PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN
Cuttlefish with green papaya and peanut-coconut cream at ink.
Location Info
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ink.
8360 Melrose Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90069
Category: Restaurant >
Region: West Hollywood
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When you mix Michael Voltaggio's ego with the terroir of Hollywood, that's a performance worth eating.
INK. | 8360 Melrose Ave., L.A. | (323) 651-5866 | mvink.com | Dinner nightly | Reservations accepted 14 days in advance | Full bar | valet parking $6
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"...intersection of ego and location." You nailed it. Tried the place several times, each time hoping it would be better. Concept, technique, presentation ok...but what about the taste?
Terrific review. I couldn't agree more that the place falls short on taste. My dinner there was beautiful to look at and extraordinarily mediocre to taste. The saving grace was their cocktail program which was very good.
*critic. Maybe I'm just being picky, but if you're going to take the time to insult a professional writer, you should check your spelling. Excellent and evocative work. I feel like I know exactly what it will be like when and if I go.
what does the servers choice of watch have to do with the restaurants review? go back to Atlanta idiot. we don't need another pretentious restaurant critique trying to sound relevant
Awesome, first two reviews you've just told everyone to Hold the F*&@! Up for two of Los Angeles' newer, more notable restaurants! This is not a criticism so please don't take it that way. Refreshing, "in both senses of the word." Absolutely brilliant intro to the review the connection between terroir and winemakers and transitioning into the rest of the review.
I'm at that place where neither tattoos nor Rolexes impress me. As described, ink. sounds like the stereotypical joint where image is everything. Ms Rodell has convinced me that this is the destination for a feast for the eyes. Yet I'm not inclined to plunk down my non-titanium credit card for the visual memories. I'll wait for the coffee table book.
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