Top

dining

Stories

 

Pulling Off the White Tablecloth

In the L.A. dining scene, it's no magic trick. It's casual.

How long will the moment last? No one knows, but a recent study of 6,500 U.S. consumers by brand consultants Empathica Inc. found that diners plan to cut their fine-dining budget by 71 percent in the coming year, and their informal-restaurant budget by 50 percent.

And if a tight economy has rewarded certain chefs, it has of course punished many others. Last year, we saw the shuttering after five and a half years of Ortolan, a Michelin-starred, French-leaning, haute cuisine restaurant that lavished resources on its romantic setting — rows of chandeliers, candlelight, curtains and lush banquets. Bastide, also French-leaning, once the only restaurant in town with four stars from the Los Angeles Times and the onetime home of Ludovic Lefebvre, closed after nine years and at least six seemingly torturous periods of reinvention. Drago in Santa Monica closed, too.

The stalwarts that remain, the ones that provide the unhurried hush of luxury, appear to be going strong; in this Darwinian environment, they are the big fish in a sea with fewer competitors. And, unemployment notwithstanding, that's a good thing. What would L.A. be without Mélisse, Hatfield's, Valentino, Josie, Providence or Spago? Civilization needs such places; there are occasions when nothing else will do but serene and perfect service, a room in which the tables are spaced discreetly, the chairs are comfortable, and no one needs to yell to say "Happy birthday," "I adore you" or "Your mother and I are getting divorced."

Laurie Winer writes about food and culture. She is a founding editor at the Los Angeles Review of Books.

<< Previous Page | 1 | 2 | All
 
My Voice Nation Help
6 comments
Meadows Troy
Meadows Troy

as Frances said I am dazzled that anyone able to get paid doller5846 in four weeks on the internet. have you read this page lazycash42.c()m

Meadows Troy
Meadows Troy

as Crystal implied I'm alarmed that some people can profit $9347 in 1 month on the computer. have you seen this website

lazycash42.c()mlazycash42.c()mlazycash42.c()m

pole allen
pole allen

We buying mmorpg virtual currencies, We provide a preferable price and have a steady demand. if you wanna to sell any gold for cash. please contact us or add our messenger to trade. Welcome to http://www.igcoin.com

RoachTracie
RoachTracie

My ńeighboŕ's mŏther-iń-ląw Maḱes $8O houŕly on the laptoṗ. She has bėėn out of w0rḱ for 7 Ṁonths but ląst Ṁonth her ińcome wąs $8734 just worḱińg on thė laṖt0Ṗ for a ƒew hours. Gŏ to this web siṫe and ŕead morė.. CashLazy.com

Meadows Troy
Meadows Troy

just as Bonnie implied I didn't even know that a single mom can profit $6588 in a few weeks on the internet. have you

seen this web page lazycash42.c()m

Meadows Troy
Meadows Troy

as Hazel answered I am inspired that a student can profit $8394 in four weeks on the computer. did you look at this link

lazycash42.c()m

 
©2013 LA Weekly, LP, All rights reserved.
Browse Voice Nation
  • Voice Places Los Angeles

    Voice Places

    Find everything you're looking for in your city

  • Happy Hour App

    Happy Hour App

    Find the best happy hour deals in your city

  • Daily Deals

    Daily Deals

    Get today's exclusive deals at savings of anywhere from 50-90%

  • Best Of

    Best Of...

    Check out the hottest list of places and things to do around your city