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Setá's menu is less traditional than Teresitas or La Casita, but it is influenced by the six months that Guatemalan-born chef Hugo Molina spent in kitchens in Oaxaca, Mexico City and, most notably, Merida.
In La Jolla de Mismaloya, near Puerto Vallarta, he learned the value of freshness. The family that ran La Chosa de Toño, where he worked, created a menu daily based on what they caught fishing that morning. When they wanted game, they would go into the mountains and bring back turkey or wild boar.
PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN
Mexican corvina sea bass with sweet miso and sake-reduction shrimp mashed potatoes
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In Puerto Vallarta, Oaxaca, he learned to make a sarandiado — fish basted with garlic, oregano, cilantro and oil, held on a stick over an open flame. In Merida, he learned ancient Mayan techniques for mixing flavors, discovering varieties of chiles and moles — like one made from apricots — the magic of whipped eggs and the delicacy of black corn tortillas.
"Mexico for me is a sleeping giant. It is amazing all the cooking they do," Molina says. "In the Yucatán area — man, do those people know how to cook."
At Séta, he is slowly introducing his customers, 70 percent of whom are U.S.-born Latinos, to what he learned in Mexico. But he and his wife, Aricia, a pastry chef, stylist and partner in the restaurant, strike a careful balance on the menu. When Molina offered wild boar as a daily special, he sold one. So while he can get away with a shrimp chile relleno with guajillo and huitlacoche sauce, or a Mexican corvina sea bass braised in sake-sweet miso with shrimp mashed potatoes, he balances out the options with "comfort foods," like roasted chicken with plantains and black beans.
"I can be very creative and innovative, but the only way to sell it is with some standards like steak, fish and chicken," he says. "Mexico has many great, beautiful things. As we keep making more of these things, more people will become more educated in what good eating means."
So now when my family and I hear of a new, adventurous, Mexican-influenced restaurant, instead of fleeing, we try it. I have yet to find grilled langostinos marinated in garlic and chile de arbol, like the ones I had on the beach in Ixtapa, or the tacos al pastor from that corner restaurant in Mexico City discovered after a late night of dancing. But at least when we have a hankering for some real mole enchiladas or quesadillas with queso Oaxaca and chorizo, we no longer have to jump on a plane to satisfy the urge.
Lorenza Muñoz was a reporter at the Los Angeles Times for 14 years. An adjunct professor of journalism at USC's Annenberg School for Communication, she can be reached at munozlorenza@gmail.com.
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You beat me to this. There are so many things going on with this article. I'd also like to to known where Puerto Vallarta, Oaxaca is, too. Pescado zarandeado is also spelled incorrectly, it's not sarandiado, but from the verb, zarandear(to shake).
Not to mention, this article is not an all a reflection of a grand Mexican cuisine in Los Angeles right now, besides a few mentions of popular and well known restaurants. I love Chef Molina, and he does some great Mexican food dishes, but Seta is a Latin American steakhouse with a Guatemalan chef. What is the connection you're making between the restaurant in this article and the stated purpose of this piece?
Teresita's is not a regional Zacatecan restaurant, at all. Being from somewhere isn't the only criteria. There are maybe 2-3 traditional Zacatecan restaurants between LA and the OC and they're birrierias. If there was to be a talk of pescado zarandeado in Los Angeles, the two best traditions are from Nayarit(it originated in Nayarit) and Sinaloa--we have maybe 50 of these places doing zarandeado around town, and none will have oregano or cilantro, nor is zarandeado cooked on a stick. That's pescado a la talla.
The cuisine my good friend Lesley Tellez describes in DF is alive and well at the Mercado Olympic, Antojitos Carmen, Nina's, and the countless chilango restaurants between LA and the OC. It's in Rocio's pre-hispanic cooking and classic Mexico flavors, it's at Juan's Restaurant, and in the strong showing from Oaxacans, Jaliscans, Sinaloans, Nayaritans, Michoacanans, and Pueblans; also a handful if Yucatecans, DF wishes it had our wealth of Mexican Sinaloan and Nayaritan seafood restaurants.
Lorenza, this article wouldn't be current in if it were done 15 years ago. And, as Gustavo stated many of these foods have been around, hidden from the mainstream media since the 70's and 80's. The Breed St. scene was going for over 2 decades. This was a very poorly researched and written piece.
What exactly does the Village Voice gain by having three paid contributors to the Village Voice hate on articles written in the LA Weekly?
Thank you for this tantalizing article. It wouldn't bother me if an adjunct professor of journalism at USC's Annenberg School for Communication made some blunders in a language foreign to her or him, but why is Lorenza Muñoz so inconsistent in her lapses in the same article? We know that diacriticals marks are not necessary in writing proper English, like in the word Chichen Itza, but she wrote pipian and pipián, Séta and Setá, then there is posole and 'chapulínes' (sic). Also there is Puerto Vallarta, Oaxaca? As if PV were in the state of Oaxaca. In said coastal city there is a Choza de Toño restaurant, but not Chosa as she informs us. Why so many slip-ups in a piece by a professor of journalism? Did her worst enemy edit the piece?
In the 90s, when my family arrived in California from Veracruz, we ran into the same problem. We had never heard of burritos, chimichangas, or tacos flooded with sour cream, and beans sprinkled with yellow cheese. We decided not to eat this American offering of vaguely familiar but mutated Mexican food. For us, real Mexican food was best prepared at home.
Come on, Lorenza. "Authentic"? "True"? Por favor don't be some Bayless-ista on this. If your family couldn't find "real" sopes in 1970s Southern Californian Mexican restaurants, ustedes weren't looking hard enough. And while you praise the alta cocina Mexican restaurants, why not the holes-in-the-wall that have all those dishes Lesley talk about, and then some?
"That old American notion of purity, of separating flavors and food into categories, is foreign to Mexicans."
Except for when they try to define purity in relation to what's considered authentic Mexican food, apparently.
"So when we decided to open the restaurant, we wanted a restaurant that served the food we had grown up with. A good mole, a good posole, good tacos with real corn tortillas."
It should be pozole.
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