In 2009 I worked with the Tijuana Visitors and Convention Bureau to assemble and lead a media tour of the Tijuana culinary scene. Leading up to the trip, I received only one call asking about the drug war, and once again I said it wouldn't be an issue. When our group arrived and I took one look at them, I just laughed my ass off: If this group of cute, petite bloggers with their huge cameras could come to Tijuana and feel completely safe, anyone could.
After we checked into our hotels on the first night, I took everyone for an unscheduled stop for carne asada cooked over mesquite. I sat contently with arms crossed — just for a minute — and watched stocky taqueros mug for the cameras and young beaming faces full of tacos without a care in the world. We hurried off for a nightcap of Casta beers, passable Mexican snacks and a magnificent group of mariachis. It was an unforgettable weekend, when the Los Angeles food community fell in love with Tijuana.
PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN
Bill Esparza samples the offerings of a tamale stand on Seventh and Alvarado
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Articles and blogs about the hidden Tijuana didn't go unnoticed; within a few months the Travel Channel wanted to hear more. Kentucky Fried Buches in Tijuana's red light district, the only chicken neck taco specialist in Mexico, which has been making them since 1963, set the stage for the Bizarre Foods Baja Mexico episode, inaugurating this viral media cycle.
These days I can't go to a food event without someone asking me, "When are we going to Tijuana?" But there is one more person who must go to Tijuana with me: Rachael Ray. Only when she comes to town will this have truly entered the mainstream. I want to hear Rachael Ray say, "I'm here in one of the gourmet capitals of Mexico: Tijuana!" I want to see chicken neck tacos on 30 Minute Meals. Hey, boneless, skinless chicken necks will do just fine.
Bill Esparza is based in North Hollywood and blogs about food at streetgourmetla.com.