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I Am a Reverse Coyote: Smuggling Food Tourists Into Tijuana

Tijuana is the new culinary media darling, but this writer has been smuggling food tourists there for years

In 2009 I worked with the Tijuana Visitors and Convention Bureau to assemble and lead a media tour of the Tijuana culinary scene. Leading up to the trip, I received only one call asking about the drug war, and once again I said it wouldn't be an issue. When our group arrived and I took one look at them, I just laughed my ass off: If this group of cute, petite bloggers with their huge cameras could come to Tijuana and feel completely safe, anyone could.

After we checked into our hotels on the first night, I took everyone for an unscheduled stop for carne asada cooked over mesquite. I sat contently with arms crossed — just for a minute — and watched stocky taqueros mug for the cameras and young beaming faces full of tacos without a care in the world. We hurried off for a nightcap of Casta beers, passable Mexican snacks and a magnificent group of mariachis. It was an unforgettable weekend, when the Los Angeles food community fell in love with Tijuana.

Bill Esparza samples the offerings of a tamale stand on Seventh and Alvarado
PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN
Bill Esparza samples the offerings of a tamale stand on Seventh and Alvarado

Articles and blogs about the hidden Tijuana didn't go unnoticed; within a few months the Travel Channel wanted to hear more. Kentucky Fried Buches in Tijuana's red light district, the only chicken neck taco specialist in Mexico, which has been making them since 1963, set the stage for the Bizarre Foods Baja Mexico episode, inaugurating this viral media cycle.

These days I can't go to a food event without someone asking me, "When are we going to Tijuana?" But there is one more person who must go to Tijuana with me: Rachael Ray. Only when she comes to town will this have truly entered the mainstream. I want to hear Rachael Ray say, "I'm here in one of the gourmet capitals of Mexico: Tijuana!" I want to see chicken neck tacos on 30 Minute Meals. Hey, boneless, skinless chicken necks will do just fine.

Bill Esparza is based in North Hollywood and blogs about food at streetgourmetla.com.

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25 comments
Silver Reyn
Silver Reyn

Cultured Mexican-Americans from SD have also been dining and hanging out in Tijuana for a while now too- it wasn't just cholos and SD college party kids. I spent many of my weekends down in Tijuana in the 90s because I saw everything you have mentioned here. I have always thought there was something special and unique about the city and have taken visitors from around the world to see the "other" Tijuana. Interestingly, they are always impressed and wonder why Americans don't know about this aspect of the city.

Pasadena catering
Pasadena catering

One of the best slogan used by the restaurant more for less.Those restaurants used this slogan they actually serve the best.

BruinBelle
BruinBelle

Delish Writeups! But, @BillEsparza: "..Rachael Ray. Only when she comes to town will this have truly entered the mainstream.." RachelRay?!?..u LOST us there Bill !!

Bill Esparza
Bill Esparza

You'd better believe it miss BruinBelle--Rachael Ray! It's gonna happen.

Don Williams
Don Williams

Interesting article. What's the wait to cross the border northbound?

Bill Esparza
Bill Esparza

Hello Don--it depends. When I just go to Tijuana I walk across and coming back is easy--less than 30 minutes. I've crossed by car in as little as 30 minutes, but I'd the average wait time driving is around 1.5 hours.

Aj_js
Aj_js

You can also find "pescuesos" chicken necks on City Terrace Dr, / Pomeroy the "Gourmet" catering truck used to be on 1st / Eastern St. in East Los Angeles.

Bill Esparza
Bill Esparza

I went to a truck that had chicken necks on Whittier. I believe they claim to be doing Tijuana style chicken neck tacos.

Robt
Robt

Thanks for the great piece on a city with some truly outstanding food (Mexican and otherwise) that sadly goes under-reported, eclipsed by the city's myths and dubious rep. ("Is it safe to go there?" Is it safe to go anywhere, really?) It's also inspiring to read a Mexican pop interest story in the Weekly that wasn't penned by someone whose cloying style, tired racial positioning and need for attention consistently gets in the way of the writing. It's long overdue.

Looking forward to a lot more from you. And thanks again. You're a breath of aire fresco.

Bill Esparza
Bill Esparza

Reality Check-Actually, the Chinese, Japanese, and just about any other cuisine besides Mexican is better in LA. But, Tijuana does have better Venezuelan and Argentine. Yes amigo, the Mexican is better in Mexico, the French is better in France, the Bora Boran in better in Bora Bora, etc. Don't have a meltdown: travel.

Eddie Lin
Eddie Lin

Vegas with teeth. That's right! Nice work, Bill!

Linda
Linda

In spite of his conceit, lots of us have been going to Tijuana for many years. And, yes, it can be dangerous in some areas, his rather blithe dismissal of this is an indication of someone who chooses to ignore reality. I feel safer in Tijuana than many other cities, but I pick the areas, I don't wander blindly.

Bill Esparza
Bill Esparza

Dear Linda- "In spite of his conceit, lots of us have been going to Tijuana for many years" This really doesn't make sense, nor does your entire comment. Yes, many have been going to Tijuana for years, but the article isn't just about just going to Tijuana. In big cities, we all "pick the areas" to wander depending on our individual comfort zones. I do lightheartedly dismiss the dangers of tourists going to Tijuana,though. Asi es.

Dear Ajo insipido-Por supuesto, Gustavo Arellano is my compadre.

Brother Eddie Lin-Thanks!

Nizajand
Nizajand

I'm a Tijuana Local and these are some places you definetely should try:

Breakfast/Brunch:-- Chilaquiles Omelette at Cafe de la Flor (Plaza Rio, Otay or Ave Sonora Chapultepec)-- For classic mexican breakfast La Espadaña

Street Food:-- Tortas carne asada at Washmobile (several locations in TJ)-- Shrimp and Fish tacos at Tacos Jr. (several locations in TJ)-- Sashimi at Otto's grill (Best Sashimi ever) (Located in lomas de agua caliente close to Instituto Mexico)-- Best Carne asada tacos are Taqueria Hipodromo-- Best Bananna agua fresca is Tacos San Cosme-- Best Orchata with Coconut water agua fresca is Mariscos Sinaloa in Colonia Hipodromo

Fine Dinning:-- Mexican/Spain Fusion: Casa Plascencia (try de arroz negro)-- International/Regional Fusion: Mision 19 -- Italian: Saverious-- Historic International: Caesars (Revolution street where caesar salad was invented)-- Asian/International: Tabule-- Mexican cuts/steaks: Rodeo or La Leña-- Fancy Pizzerias: El taller or Hornero

These are only a few of the many good places to eat in TJ from a street taco to fancy resutaurants, you can't go wrong, ENJOY!!

Bill Esparza
Bill Esparza

Fantastic list Nixajand, and yes Rae, there's more to Tijuana than just food.

Rae
Rae

A very cool gallery down there, too, in the Colonia Federal arts district by the border: La Casa Del Tunel. Community of artists there doing wonderful things to the houses.

Reality Check
Reality Check

So sick of this guy's attitude. Nothing in LA is as good as Mexico. Angelenos are a bunch of nutty food geeks. His disdain is palpable, yet folks just lap it up.

agliopiccante
agliopiccante

He likes to make fun of white people, along with his compadre Gustavo Arellano.

gustavoarellano
gustavoarellano

What a pathetic loser to bring my name up when there's no reason—Tube8 freeze up on you? Bill doesn't make fun of white people, nor do I; we only ridicule morons such as yourself. Toodles!

Lance
Lance

I was going to ask what Tub8 is then I searched the interwebs,. Nothing like ESPN8 "the ocho".

Ted
Ted

food blogger invents tijuana in foodie shocker. sigh. it's nice to know eaters now have egos to compete with musicians and actors.

Guest
Guest

cool article Bill...no mention of Montezuma's revenge though... ;)

Bill Esparza
Bill Esparza

Thanks, Tom. Well, I don't think Moctezuma ever got any revenge, but believe Montezuma's revenge is strictly for Cabo party animals on a Cuervo Gold, nachos, and Corona diet.

Julio GG
Julio GG

How about a reverse tour. West Hollywood, BH, Westwood and the Beach eats, haunts and famous clubs for the TJ ers. bajajulio@gmail.com

 
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