Son of a Gun: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011 | 99 Restaurants | Los Angeles | Los Angeles News and Events | LA Weekly
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Son of a Gun: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011 

Thursday, Nov 10 2011
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 Whatever the current style in Los Angeles restaurants ends up being named, from the small-plate thing to the fixation on local, organic produce; the off-center proteins to the international palette of flavors; and the resistance to even modest customer requests, it may have its origins in the cheeseburger conspiracies of Father's Office tsar Sang Yoon but it runs right through the kitchens of Animal, where Vinny Dotolo and Jon Shook refined both the concept of fried pig's ears and the polite nod of refusal.

 At Son of a Gun, Shook's and Dotolo's small-plates seafood restaurant, the chef is still always right. But it is hard to imagine what alterations you might want to make to a dish of smoked steelhead roe, maple-flavored cream and razor-thin shards of toast, which tastes like an extreme deconstruction of lox and cream cheese on a pumpernickel bagel; of a single Santa Barbara spot prawn with a drop or two of melted butter; or grouper in a broth inspired by Vietnamese pho. What Shook and Dotolo are attempting here, I think, is an American version of abstracted post-Matsuhisa places like Koi, with American seafood instead of imported yellowtail, jaunty Florida-style nautical implements on the walls instead of bamboo, country ham and cornbread instead of tonkatsu with cabbage, and Dark & Stormys at the bar instead of sake. Just try to get alligator schnitzel at Nobu. 8370 W. 3rd. St., L.A. (323) 782-9033, sonofagunrestaurant.com. Sun.-Thurs., 6-11 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 6 p.m.-mid. Street parking, valet. AE, MC, V. Seafood/American.

99 Essential L.A. Restaurants 2011:

click to enlarge ANNE FISHBEIN

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Jonathan Gold's Introduction
Anne Fishbein's Photos
The Google Map

The List:

A-Frame
Akasha
Alcazar
Angeli Caffe
Angelini Osteria
Animal
Antojitos Carmen
Attari
Babita
Bludso's
Border Grill
Bottega Louie
Bulgarini Gelato
Cacao
Campanile
Casa Bianca
Chang's Garden
Chego
Chichén Itzá
Chung King
Church & State
Ciro's
Comme Ça
Cut
Dae Bok
Din Tai Fung
Drago Centro
El Huarache Azteca
El Parian
Elvirita's
Euro Pane Bakery
Eva
Fab Hot Dogs
Father's Office
Fig
Gjelina
Golden Deli
Golden State
Good Girl Dinette
The Gorbals
Guelaguetza
Guisados
Huckleberry
Hungry Cat
Ink.
Jar
Jitlada
Kiriko
Kobawoo
La Casita Mexicana
Langer's
Larkin's
Lazy Ox Canteen
Le Comptoir
Little Dom's
Lou
Lucques
LudoBites
Lukshon
Mantee
Marouch
Mayura
Meals by Genet
Mélisse
Mezze
Mo-Chica
Mother Dough
Mozza
Musso & Frank Grill
Nem Nuong Khanh Hoa
Newport Tan Cang Seafood Restaurant
The Nickel
Night + Market
Oinkster
101 Noodle Express
Palate Food + Wine
Park's Barbecue
Picca
Playa
Pollos a la Brasa
Providence
Ray's
Red Medicine
Rivera
Rustic Canyon
Salt's Cure
Sapp Coffee Shop
Sea Harbour
Son of a Gun
Sotto
Spago
Spice Table
Street
Tacos Baja Ensenada
Tasting Kitchen
Terroni
Tsujita L.A.
Vincenti
Waterloo & City

 

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