Casa Bianca: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011 | 99 Restaurants | Los Angeles | Los Angeles News and Events | LA Weekly
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Casa Bianca: 99 Essential Restaurants 2011 

Thursday, Nov 10 2011
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Sam Martorana, who was behind the ovens at Casa Bianca for more than 50 years, was such a presence at the red-checked-tablecloth pizzeria that it was hard to imagine it continuing after he passed away. His pizza was idiosyncratic to an extreme: thin when the fashion was for puffy crusts; judiciously topped in an era marked by bubbling excess; and sliced into the odd parallelograms characteristic of bar pies from the South Side of Chicago, which is where he learned to cook. The mushrooms were always canned — fresh mushrooms dry out in the oven's extreme heat — and Martorana kept pineapple-topped Hawaiian pizza on the menu because he liked it.

Wedge-of-lettuce salads are a cliché now, but there were years when Casa Bianca's was the only model in town. And the family has maintained the tradition: I defy anyone to spot decline in the signature eggplant-sausage pizza. The sausage is still fresh and homemade; the fried eggplant still crunchy; the tomato sauce still well-reduced; the crust still thin, crisp, lightly charred and quick to stiffen. Is it worth a visit? Definitely, yes. The crowds are almost manageable before 5 and after 10. 1650 Colorado Blvd., Eagle Rock. (323) 256-9617, casabiancapizza.com. Tues.-Thurs., 4 p.m.-mid.; Fri.-Sat., 4 p.m.-1 a.m. Beer and wine. Takeout. Street parking. Cash only. Italian.

99 Essential L.A. Restaurants 2011:

click to enlarge PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN

Location Info

Jonathan Gold's Introduction
Anne Fishbein's Photos
The Google Map

The List:

A-Frame
Akasha
Alcazar
Angeli Caffe
Angelini Osteria
Animal
Antojitos Carmen
Attari
Babita
Bludso's
Border Grill
Bottega Louie
Bulgarini Gelato
Cacao
Campanile
Casa Bianca
Chang's Garden
Chego
Chichén Itzá
Chung King
Church & State
Ciro's
Comme Ça
Cut
Dae Bok
Din Tai Fung
Drago Centro
El Huarache Azteca
El Parian
Elvirita's
Euro Pane Bakery
Eva
Fab Hot Dogs
Father's Office
Fig
Gjelina
Golden Deli
Golden State
Good Girl Dinette
The Gorbals
Guelaguetza
Guisados
Huckleberry
Hungry Cat
Ink.
Jar
Jitlada
Kiriko
Kobawoo
La Casita Mexicana
Langer's
Larkin's
Lazy Ox Canteen
Le Comptoir
Little Dom's
Lou
Lucques
LudoBites
Lukshon
Mantee
Marouch
Mayura
Meals by Genet
Mélisse
Mezze
Mo-Chica
Mother Dough
Mozza
Musso & Frank Grill
Nem Nuong Khanh Hoa
Newport Tan Cang Seafood Restaurant
The Nickel
Night + Market
Oinkster
101 Noodle Express
Palate Food + Wine
Park's Barbecue
Picca
Playa
Pollos a la Brasa
Providence
Ray's
Red Medicine
Rivera
Rustic Canyon
Salt's Cure
Sapp Coffee Shop
Sea Harbour
Son of a Gun
Sotto
Spago
Spice Table
Street
Tacos Baja Ensenada
Tasting Kitchen
Terroni
Tsujita L.A.
Vincenti
Waterloo & City

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