"Do you make your own tortillas?'' I asked one day as I was paying the check.
"Do we make our own tortillas?'' Armando asked, with the incredulous look of somebody who had just been asked if he buttoned his own shirt. "Let me show you something.''
PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN
Tinga taco
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He nodded to one of the countermen that he was going to be gone for a couple of minutes, and he led me out of the restaurant and into the bakery next door. He walked toward the back of the shop, then veered into a small, dim industrial kitchen in an offset nook.
"See those big things filled with corn?'' he asked, gesturing toward a pair of stainless-steel basins. "That's nixtamal. My brother makes it fresh every day. He grinds it all day long in that big stone grinder over there. And in the restaurant, our masa is rarely more than a half-hour old. That's why our tortillas are so good."
GUISADOS | 2100 E. Cesar Chavez Ave., Boyle Heights | (323) 264-7201 | guisados.co | Mon.-Sat., 10 a.m.-8 p.m.; Sun., 11 a.m.-5 p.m. | MC, V | No alcohol | Lot parking off St. Louis Ave., just south of restaurant | Takeout | Tacos $2.50; tamales $1.50; taco sampler $6.50 | Recommended tacos: chuleta en salsa verde; chiles torreado; camarones; quesadilla
