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Jonathan Gold Reviews Picca

At Ricardo Zarate's restaurant, Peruvian meets the Japanese izakaya

Santa Barbara prawn
PHOTO BY ANNE FISHBEIN
Santa Barbara prawn

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Picca

9575 W. Pico. Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90035

Category: Restaurant > Peruvian

Region: Melrose/ Beverly/ Fairfax

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Still, I've never had a better version of carapulcra, the freeze-dried potato stew, a standard of Inca cooking that may have been the first recorded instance of molecular cuisine; in most restaurants it tends toward a certain packing-peanut consistency but here it's tender, a little chewy and full of flavor, like the potato equivalent of salt cod. The seco de pato may have been made with duck confit, but the beery, herb-infused rice it came on tasted as if it had come from the kitchen of a Chiclayo grandmother. Arroz con erizo displayed all the complex brininess of sea urchin. A tasting menu included a tiradito of raw, well-marbled Iberico pork, briefly seared and dribbled with rocoto chile puree, and a deep, gelatinous stew of long-cooked pig's feet that could have come from a Michelin-starred restaurant in Spain.

PICCA | 9575 W. Pico Blvd., W.L.A. | (310) 277-0133 | piccaperu.com | Mon.-Thurs., 6–11 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 6 p.m.–1 a.m. | AE, MC, V | Full bar | Valet parking | Starters $7-$12; causa sushi $5-$7; ceviches $9-$16; anticuchos $6-$12; main courses $9-$16 (way more for specials); desserts $7 | Recommended dishes: leches de tigre shooters; beef-heart anticuchos; carapulcra; seco de pato; tres leches cake

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4 comments
JeffreyME
JeffreyME

One of the best and most original upscale L.A. dining experiences I've had in a long time.

Three caveats: 1.The place is unusually loud, especially considering that it doesn't appear there's that many patrons actually carrying on conversations; it's the acoustics and the noise from the open kitchen. 2. Portions are not just small, they are tiny. So, be prepared to order at least four dishes per person, if you come hungry. Expect to spend $50-75 or so per person, depending upon what and how much you drink.3. We found our service to be pretty attentive, but not as knowledgeable about the menu as we would have liked. It's unique and lengthy list of dishes; we did all right, but could have used a bit more guidance.

The biggest drawback is the noise level. At a place like AFrame, its cacophonous, but you go there for a cheap, and fairly quick meal. When I spend a few hundred dollars for six people, I generally want to have a bit more relaxed dining experience.

Haba Nero
Haba Nero

JG is way to gentle here. The SB prawn that was listed on the menu as 2 prawns is actually 1 that is butterflied. That's dishonest, to say the least.

The service is poor. In my two visits and one experience shared by my brother, the waiters were unaware if meat was grass feed and where the fish was sourced. When my brother ordered a bottle of champagne, the bartender poured too much into the flutes and they overflowed.

The wait staff needs to spend a day or two downstairs at Sotto and take notes.

The manager, a bristly little baldie with a French accent, would not let my wife wait inside for 10 minutes until the restaurant opened. Quel Con!

The food is good as are the drinks. But I'd rather be at Mo Chica any day.

MyAK
MyAK

What are some good recent Peruvian cookbooks?

Remy

Joe T. Garcia
Joe T. Garcia

Aren't weeze out of the 20th Century yet? I remember having excellent Peruvian food in Chicago more than 30 years ago, but you're saying ... what is it you're saying?

 
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