Based on Mycoskie’s track record, USC’s Richard Flory says, “He might call himself a ‘Christ follower’ rather than an evangelist, which is the new term these days. But he’s clearly a fellow traveler in this world.”
Now critics have begun to focus on Mycoskie’s business model of telling consumers they are each personally helping shoeless children around the world.
TOMS manufactures its shoes in China, where, says Shui-Yan Tang, a USC professor of East Asian environmental policy and politics, it’s difficult to monitor working conditions. The company says it requires “that the factories operate under sound labor conditions [and] sign a code of conduct.”
But Kelsey Timmerman, author of Where Am I Wearing?, which details his worldwide travels to factories where his personal wardrobe was made, says TOMS’ promotion of a code of conduct “doesn’t mean anything to me. I’ve seen that statement on a countless number of company websites, and I’ve seen quite the opposite” when visiting companies’ outsourced manufacturing sites.
The website Alibaba.com, which publishes data to help manufacturers and buyers find suppliers in foreign countries, shows that a pair of slip-on canvas shoes actually costs between $3.50 and $5 to make.
TOMS sells that kind of shoe in the U.S. at retail prices ranging from $29 to $98; the “classic” sells for $44-$68. Then, for each shoe sold, TOMS gives away a pair of shoes costing $3.50 to $5 to produce.
Timmerman says, “People probably think they’re spending $40 on a pair of TOMS, and the poor kids are also getting $40 shoes, but that’s not what’s happening.”
When Timmerman visited Ethiopia, where TOMS manufactures its “giving shoes” — shoes that are donated to poor kids but not sold to consumers — he said some people complained to him about Mycoskie. “They were really offended and critical of TOMS,” Timmerman says. “They feel TOMS exploits Ethiopian poverty, that that’s their marketing tool.”
In addition, Paez shoe founder Pando, who’s based in Buenos Aires and makes a point of manufacturing his own slip-on shoes in Argentina and not outsourcing that work to China, says the children’s shoes TOMS gives away are the least expensive to make. “There’s less material, and it takes less time to make them,” Pando tells the Weekly in a phone interview from Argentina. (On TOMS’ website, kids’ shoes retail for $29 for “Tiny TOMS” and $38 for youth sizes.)
Pando doesn’t believe in using a social cause to sell a product, which TOMS clearly does. Pando promotes the quality of his shoes while giving fair-wage jobs to his employees. Paez footwear is produced in a “no-sweatshops” factory on the outskirts of Buenos Aires, where the cost to manufacture Paez shoes is $8, Pando says; he sells them for $16 in his home country. “We support giving jobs and opportunities to the people of Argentina,” he says.
Pando’s approach makes more sense to Timmerman, who has seen desperate poverty firsthand.
“You see the impact of how a job can change lives,” says Timmerman, “of how it can give a person dignity.”
He adds, “TOMS is a feel-good story, but you pull back the veil a little bit and you just go, ‘Oh, man, I really wish that’s not the case.’ ”
Contact Patrick Range McDonald at pmcdonald@laweekly.com.