Jonathan Gold Reviews Lao Bian Dumpling | First Bite | Los Angeles | Los Angeles News and Events | LA Weekly

Jonathan Gold Reviews Lao Bian Dumpling 

Thursday, Jun 16 2011

The storefront that houses Lao Bian Dumpling has had many faces over the last few years, including Noodle Island, a favorite for its Hainan chicken rice. Its transformation into Lao Bian Dumpling was pretty recent.

But even with the rapid turnover, it was surprising to walk into the restaurant the other day and be greeted by the owner informing me that the restaurant had changed over once again, into a Sichuan place whose chef is recently arrived from Chengdu.

There didn’t seem to be any actual menus yet, but there was a great version of twice-cooked pork sauteed with leeks and lots of chile; a dish of fish filets sauteed with chile, garlic and tofu; and flash-fried string beans with a salty crumble of fermented things. The lamb ribs, coated with cumin, chile and Sichuan pepper, and fried with a giant, crimson pile of dried chiles for fragrance, was the best version of this dish in town, and there are a dozen contenders.

Location Info

Related Stories

  • Szechuan Impression Review: Another Sichuan Triumph in the SGV

    Szechuan Impression is not the first exciting Sichuan restaurant to open in Alhambra recently. That distinction belongs to Chengdu Taste, which opened in June 2013 to salivating and swooning and wait times of up to two hours. It was followed by a second Chengdu Taste, which opened last month to...
  • Szechuan Impression Impresses in Alhambra

    Lines of people, some seated in plastic chairs, waiting in front of a small Sichuan restaurant along W. Valley Boulevard. This has become a common sight. Except we're not referring to Chengdu Taste this time. Located several blocks to the west, Szechuan Impression opened recently and quickly established itself as...
  • The Second Chengdu Taste Is Finally Open: Let The Lines Begin

    When chef Tony Xu opened Chengdu Taste in Alhambra last summer, word of mouth and Xu's innovative use of Weibo, Chinese Twitter, quickly led to notoriously lengthy lines. Waits of more than an hour were common as people queued for the opportunity to sample dishes ranging from Sichuan standards to...
  • Yunnan Cuisine 10

    Despite the obvious wealth of Chinese food in the San Gabriel Valley, it’s always worth it to take a moment to appreciate what is truly an incredible landmark in the world’s culinary sphere. There is, maybe, one other area outside of China that serves Chinese food as wonderfully diverse and...
  • Tony Xu: Chengdu Taste's Tastemaker

    One of the fascinating Angelenos featured in L.A. Weekly's People 2014 issue. Check out our entire People 2014 issue. If you aren't familiar with Tony Xu, it's likely because you don't speak the man's language. But there's a decent chance you've had his food. Xu, a 40-year-old Chinese emigre who...

I intend to go back for mapo doufu, dan dan mian and whatever else the chef has in mind — most assuredly including Sichuan wonton in red oil. “I think I’m going to keep the English name the same,” said the new proprietor, who also owns the well-regarded Taiwanese restaurant Ho’s Kitchen. “In Chinese, I don’t know — probably something like Eat Spicy, Drink Spicy.”

LAO BIAN DUMPLING | 800 W. Las Tunas Drive, San Gabriel

Related Content

Related Locations

Now Trending