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Test Kitchen: Never-Ending Experiment

Invented anew every night

Peaches, creme de cassis, raspberry, condensed milk and tonic-water sorbet
PHOTO By ANNE FISHBEIN
Peaches, creme de cassis, raspberry, condensed milk and tonic-water sorbet

Still, if you're more interested in the creative chaos of a restaurant's first days than you are in the polished product of a kitchen that has worked together for years, Test Kitchen was designed for you.

TEST KITCHEN: 9575 W. Pico Blvd., L.A. (310) 277-0133, testkitchenla.com. (Online reservations only.) Open Tues.-Sat., 6 p.m.-mid. Full bar. Valet parking. Cost varies.
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