The Mexican Binge

When a visitor wants nothing but

A A A Comments (8) By Jonathan Gold Thursday, Mar 11 2010

Dear Mr. Gold,

Location Info

More Monterey Park/ Alhambra/ S. Gabriel Restaurants

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Babita Mexicuisine

1823 S. San Gabriel Blvd.
San Gabriel, CA 91776

Category: Restaurant > Mexican

Region: Monterey Park/ Alhambra/ S. Gabriel

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My sister, who has lived for the last nearly two decades in Japan, is coming to visit L.A. for the first time in years. What do you want to do? I ask. Two-word answer: "Mexican food.'' So, I'm thinking Moles La Tia, La Casita Mexicana, Guelaguetza, Chichen Itza, Antojitos Carmen, El Huarache Azteca. What am I missing, other than a truck? We only have three days, but she's up for it.

—Jean McCoy, Pasadena

Dear Ms. McCoy:

You've covered a lot of the essentials — moles and huaraches, refined central Mexican dishes and a reformed street stall, Yucatecan cuisine and the ever-delightful snacks of Mexico's capital. But your list has no Chicano joints, the third-generation places so beloved here. I recommend Ciro's for flautas and old-school chile verde; Al & Bea's for bean-and-cheese burritos; and Los Tres Cochinitos in Wilmington for 24-hour cecina and eggs. You'd be missing out if you skipped the grilled snook and cockroach-style shrimp at Mariscos Chente in Mar Vista. L.A. would be a sadder place without the Sinaloan marlin tacos at Badiraguato in South Gate; the oddly specific carnitas at Metro Balderas in Highland Park and the epochal goat birria at places like Flor del Rio or El Parian.

But why not head to Babita in San Gabriel, order a bottle of Baja Syrah, and sit down to a white-tablecloth meal of sopes with tequila-cured salmon, chiles en nogada, beef-cheek barbacoa, or lamb mixiotes. I've never been to a Mexican restaurant in Tokyo, but I suspect Babita would rank pretty high.

BABITA: 1823 S. San Gabriel Blvd., San Gabriel. (626) 288-7265.

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Nannette 11/18/2010 6:46:00 PM

I will just say that I was ecstatic to find chiles en nogada so relatively close to my hometown. The web only shows a second restaurant serving them and it is in Bell Gardens, I believe. I had the pleasure of having them in Ensenada a couple of years ago and it is on my list to do again next month. I just wanted to say if you have never had them , you cannot leave this earth without doing so. I cannot explain the sensation and the pleasureable experience. I won't describe them. I am driving from the Inland Empire to delight myself and remember, it is a seasonal dish since pomegranade is available from November until ??? Nannette
Dave Lieberman 05/25/2010 4:44:00 AM

Or David Weinberg could ask the food critic of the OC Weekly -- or any of us bloggers, really. I promise, it's not a wasteland... there's even, dare I say it, great food in the 949.
rameniac 03/25/2010 4:47:00 PM

the mexican food in tokyo is assuredly, crap.
corey haim 03/18/2010 7:23:00 AM

yo mr. gold, Ciro's in boyle heights has been on the decline for the past couple years, heard they changed ownership & it's gone downhill since. save the time & walk across the street to el tepayac!
Manuel Alonzo 03/18/2010 2:58:00 AM

You forgot the carnitas tacos and fish tacos at the Grand Central Market on Broadway. What about dessert Mexican Wedding Cakes at any bakery in East L.A.?
Harry Nile 03/13/2010 12:23:00 AM

Some good ideas, but: (1) I'd avoid Moles La Tia, although it's supposed to have improved since the departure of the last cook, who welded things together in a most undelicious way. (2) Be sure to get the salsa on the side with your bean and cheese burrito at Al & Bea's -- otherwise, it will be watery. (3) The best carnitas IMHO are at Los Cincos Puntos (on Cesar Chavez at the intersection with Indiana and Lorena). They'll outfit you with thick and grilled corn tortillas filled with luscious lumps and shards of pork. Say "yes" when asked if you want nopalitos in your taco. As usual, they look like yesterday's green beans but, unlike the variety served in many places, have fine texture and great flavor. And (4) if Los Cincos Puntos is too street for your friend from Japan, go to Yuca's, a streety little shack in a parking lot in semi-hip Los Feliz, for fantastic and juicy cochinita pibil rolled beautifully into small, tidy burritos -- the best burritos I've had since returning to Los Angalus five years ago.
Mr Taster 03/11/2010 11:19:00 PM

David, OC is the home of some amazing Vietnamese food in Little Saigon. Go to www.chowhound.com and search for it.
David Weinberg 03/11/2010 7:31:00 AM

HELP ME -- I'M DYING! I moved from Pasadena to Orange County 2 years ago, and what a WASTELAND for good and interesting restaurants down here. I know you work for LA (not OC) Weekly, but this is L.A. after all -- and we drive all over Southern California for everything. So do you have any "finds" down here. PLEASE....