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Jonathan Gold’s 99 Essential L.A. Restaurants

Between a tweet and a truck

 

Zelo Gourmet Pizzeria
Zelo is an islet of counterculture in a conservative part of town, a poster-encrusted suburban takeout joint that vibrates to the sound of surf music and vintage punk-rock — if it weren’t a pizzeria, it could be tweaked into an indie record store in about a minute and a half. Zelo’s pizza is a different sort of pie, its crust enriched with a little cornmeal, packed and crimped into a high-rimmed, steel deep-dish pizza pan blackened from years in the ovens, and baked to a high crunchiness. A vegetarian pizza, available in both vegan and cheese-bearing versions, is piled with baked eggplant, roasted peppers and mushrooms. Even the plain-vanilla sausage pie is plumped out with marinated peppers, tomato chunks and sautéed onions. This may be the great, undiscovered L.A. pizza restaurant. And as the sign by the cash register says, save your fork; there’s cake — specifically a delicious Florentine-style zucotto. 328 E. Foothill Blvd., Arcadia, (626) 358-8298, zelo.us.

Robert Rodriguez
Riva
Anne Fishbein
Riva

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Editor's note: Regretfully, the first six of Jonathan Gold's 99 Essential L.A. Restaurants were inadvertently omitted from this list originally.  They have now been restored.

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