Le Saint Amour: Paris in Culver City

Chef Bruno Herve-Commereuc's Menu Is on the Meaty Side

Comments (0) By Jonathan Gold Wednesday, Jul 22 2009

Los Angeles is at the moment blessed with a handful of fantasy bistros, places that could hold their own in bistro-sated New York or even Paris, like Anisette, Lou, Comme Ça and Church & State, which are redefining the form. And then there are the regular L.A. bistros, the dining rooms we fall into for an omelette at lunch or a big salad for dinner, pretty good terrines and rillettes made on the premises, and the usual rations of négociant Bordeaux, cheesy onion soup and roast chicken.

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Le Saint Amour

9725 Culver Blvd.
Culver City, CA 90232

Category: Restaurant > French

Region: Culver City

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Le Saint Amour, named after the mediocre but evocatively dubbed Beaujolais cru, is a big, handsome place, a tall, narrow dining room running street to street in the restaurant-row area of downtown Culver City, with wisecracking waiters, ranks of outdoor tables, and an air of cheerful Parisian diffidence that is hard to manufacture. The charcuterie-intensive menu of blood sausage, snout salad, tripe sausage, Toulouse sausage with lentils, and merguez with carrots makes sense, as the chef/owner is the sausage-maker Bruno Herve-Commereuc — best known from his years at the downtown bistro Angelique — who has always had a meaty outlook on cuisine. Sometimes you’re in the mood for an exquisite, deconstructed choucroute, but perhaps more often it’s going to be a quick plate of steak-frites before the movie. Le Saint Amour is a decidedly useful bistro.

Le Saint Amour, 9725 Culver Blvd., Culver City, (310) 842-8155, www.lesaintamour.com.