His care continues in dish after dish, the stir-fry lomo saltado made with decent-quality beef filet and fresh tomatoes and topped with a kind of Lincoln Log construction of French fried potatoes; a carefully arranged arroz con pollo; a big lamb shank, his version of seco de cordero, roasted with what also seems like a country-French degree of detail on a bed of Peruvian canary beans with a cilantro puree.
But it is not all straightforward Peruvian cooking here. As far as I know there is nothing in Andean cooking like Zarate’s quinotto, a bowl of puffed quinoa simmered with crème fraîche and shiitake mushrooms until it resembles a musky Piemontese risotto. And although a slab of griddle-crisped barracuda, served over a slurry of chick peas stewed with barley and herbs, may be more Cal-Med than classically Peruvian — but with a dab of fiery rocoto-pepper paste or moss-green chile puree zapped with the Peruvian herb huacatay — it might as well be.
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Mo-Chica
3655 S. Grand Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90070
Category: Restaurant > Peruvian
Region: USC to South L.A.
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Mo-Chica: Mon.-Sat., 11 a.m.-6 p.m. Free delivery with minimum order. Lunch for two, food only, $18-$36. Recommended dishes:causa;ceviche;seco de cordero;arroz con pollo.
In Mercado La Paloma, 3655 S. Grand Ave., L.A. (213) 747-2141 or www.mo-chica.com.
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2012 - Food & Drink
