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Craft of a Top Chef: Lost and Found at Tom Colicchio's L.A. Spinoff Show Craftbar

The Craft experience distilled into a tasting menu of small plates

At Craftbar, wine is served in four-ounce portions at $7 a shot, which means that you can afford to have both a Riesling with the cured albacore and a Zinfandel with the lamb sliders, and the $7 cocktails, although they won’t give the bartenders at Varnish fits of envy, include a very nice Century Sling, which tastes a bit like an updated Pisco Sour. Just as at the circus, you’ll find caramel corn, chocolate chip cookies and doughnut holes for dessert.

A note: chef Matthew Accarrino and pastry chef Catherine Schimenti left the restaurant just a few days before presstime; Anthony Zappola and Sharon Swindle from Craft Dallas are the new chefs. At a meal this weekend, a bit of the polish was off, and the new pastry chef (Zappola has yet to arrive) seems to favor things like caramel corn, chocolate cookies and doughnut holes instead of elaborately plated desserts. It is always hard to know how much of a syndicated restaurant comes from its on-site chef and how much from its capo di tutti capi. But as long as they serve the lamb belly every once in awhile, everything should work out fine.

Frozen foie gras with pistachio and rhubarb.
Anne Fishbein
Frozen foie gras with pistachio and rhubarb.
Duck sausage with cherry mostarda.
Duck sausage with cherry mostarda.

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Craft

10100 Constellation Blvd.
Century City, CA 90067

Category: Bars/Clubs

Region: West L.A.

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Craftbar: Inside Craft, 10100 Constellation Blvd., Century City, (310) 279-4180. Lunch Mon.-Fri., 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; dinner Mon.-Thurs., 6-10 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., 6-10:30 p.m.; Sun., 5-9 p.m. Full bar. All major credit cards accepted. Valet parking and validated self-parking. Small plates $6-$8. Recommended dishes: baby dandelion greens with capers; lamb belly with candy-stripe beets, dates and yogurt; cavatelli with housemade ricotta; caramel corn.

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