Moles La Tia: Beyond the Magnificent Seven
Sauced in East L.A.
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Moles La Tía
4619 E. Cesar Chavez Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90022
Category: Restaurant > Oaxacan
Region: East L.A.
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Still, I always end up with the quail in the traditional black mole, so dark that it seems to suck the light out of the airspace around it, spicy as a novela and bitter as tears, a mole whose aftertaste can go on for hours. La Tía’s mole negro appears so glossy and rich that I am always tempted to test its consistency by stabbing an index finger into it, and the resulting stain lingers as long as the empurpled digits of patriotic Iraqi voters. The last time I was as inspired by glossy black, it was part of Charles Ray’s infamous sculpture Ink Box, and it was enshrined in a major museum of art.
Open daily, 9 a.m.-8:30 p.m. No alcohol. Lot parking in rear. MC, V. Dinner for two, food only, $22-$46. Recommended dishes: quesadillas; quail in Oaxacan black mole;machamantales; passionfruit mole; menudo (weekends only). 4619 E. Cesar Chavez Blvd., L.A., (323) 263-7842.
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