A Proper Brasserie: Alain Giraud's Anisette

So old, it's new

Comments (0) By Jonathan Gold Wednesday, Sep 17 2008

Is the duck confit dry? It can be. Steaks can be gamy and less than tender in the brasserie tradition, and the rotisserie chicken, although always crisp-skinned, can be juicy and alive one meal and a little dry the next.

But the restaurant is almost a showcase for the farmers market, sea scallops garnished with the tiniest fresh favas in late spring, seared char with perfect ratatouille in late summer; composed salads featuring asparagus when appropriate, and watermelon, fresh mozzarella and heirloom tomatoes later in the summer. A few weeks ago, Giraud charged through the front door with a basketful of treasures that he had picked up at that morning’s market, and he stopped by the table to show off the loot — Gaviota strawberries from Harry’s Berries, crenelated old-breed zucchini and a basket of mulberries from Weiser Farms, fresh shell beans from McGrath, and a few bunches of sun-warmed summer savory that would make the beans sing. I recognized the produce instantly. An almost identical assortment was sitting in the trunk of my car.

Anne Fishbein

Anisette: Paris on the Pacific

Anne Fishbein

Final touch: Alain Giraud, left, with chef de cuisine Joshua Smith

Location Info

Map

Anisette Brasserie

225 Santa Monica Blvd.
Santa Monica, CA 90401

Category: Restaurant > French

Region: Santa Monica

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Anisette, 225 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, (310) 395-3200 or anisette brasserie.com. Mon.-Thurs., 7:30 a.m.-mid.; Fri., 7:30 a.m.-1 a.m.; Sat., 8 a.m. to 1 a.m.; Sun., 8 a.m.-mid. Full bar. Nearby city-lot parking on Second St. free for two hours. AMEX, MC, V. Recommended dishes: onion soup, steak tartare, sweetbreads, char, duck à l‘orange, profiteroles.