Rush Street: A Man's World 

A guy-food safe haven where even the salads are topped with carnitas

Wednesday, Aug 6 2008

Downtown Culver City is newly rich in restaurants designed to appeal to the feminine sensibility: places with big salads, places with dreamboat chefs and dainty organic produce, places with wine bars, and places where you could safely take your yoga instructor out to dinner. So it was inevitable that a guy-food restaurant would eventually open to fill the void, and Rush Street, a double-height brick dining room named for a Chicago thoroughfare famous for its concentration of postcollegiate singles bars, is as male-friendly as an ice-cold can of Bud: clumsily endearing takes on the Fathers Office burger, the kobe slider and the pulled-pork sandwich, plus pretty good French fries, backed by a serious bar and served by waitresses hot enough to merit their own spread in Maxim. There is salad — topped with carnitas. Oddly enough, the pizza, anti-Chicago in nature, must be among the thinnest-crust pies in town. 9546 Washington Blvd., Culver City, (310) 837-9546.

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