Loading...

That Sucking Sound: The Gross and Greasy Glory of Roasted Marrowbones 

In L.A., the best are at Cut and Pizzeria Mozza

Wednesday, Jun 25 2008
Comments

Dear Mr. Gold,

Recently, we went on a trip to New York City and had a wonderful dish of roasted marrowbones, parsley and sea salt at Prune restaurant in the East Village. We loved it and we still reminisce about the dish. We’re willing to drive anywhere for marrowbones, but we don’t know where to go. Please help point us in the right direction.

—Nicole N., L.A.

Location Info

Related Stories

  • We Wish We All Could Be Caprice's Kind of California Girl

    “This is myself with my best friend at the time, frying my skin," says the across-the-pond celebrity Caprice Bourret while looking at old photos, nibbling a scone at high tea at the Culver Hotel. "I used to be such a California girl. I used to fry. Hawaiian Tropic, no sunscreen at all."...
  • Surprise! Americans Drink More Wine Than the French

    Congratulations America! We're officially bigger winos than the French. According to the Organization of Vine and Wine, the U.S. became the biggest internal market in the world, volume-wise, as of 2013. We won this coveted title by consuming 29.1 million hectoliters (mhl) of wine - not including vermouth or special wines,...
  • S.Pellegrino's 50 Best Restaurants in the World Announced

    At a schmoozy, boozy event in London, S.Pellegrino announced their list of the 50 Best Restaurants in the world today. Seven U.S. restaurants made the cut. Two are from California. None are from Los Angles. This is the 12th year S. Pellegrino and Restaurant magazine have been putting out the list. This...
  • Music Picks: Lykke Li, Ty$, London Grammar

    fri 5/16 Connan Mockasin, Kirin J Callinan THE ECHOPLEX While we'd love to believe the Syd Barrett comparisons Connan Mockasin is getting, we just don't hear it. (Maybe with the hair, though?) Instead, this New Zealander found his sound in Ariel Pink's bottomless discography and dug deeper from there, with...
  • L.A. Is No. 1

    We sometimes feel like L.A. gets no respect. This megalopolis of billionaire media moguls, extraordinary global food and influential SoCal culture is still often treated by New York media as a backwater of undiscovered delights. See also: 5 Times the East Coast Media Got L.A. Dead Wrong But at least the...


Dear Ms. N.,

Prune’s dish is undoubtedly Gabrielle Hamilton’s homage to the roasted marrowbones at the London restaurant St. John, Fergus Henderson’s temple of off-cuts, shot game and rare-breed meat that has no close equivalent in the United States — Henderson’s is a place that moves rolled spleen and roast squirrel the way Junior’s sells pastrami sandwiches. Like the Prune dish, Henderson’s bones are served with coarse salt and a salty mound of parsley chopped just enough to tame the marrow. You scoop a bit of the marrow onto a slice of toast, garnish it with the parsley and sprinkle on a few grains of salt — the flavor explodes in your mouth, beefy richness almost beyond description, punctuated with crunchy bursts of salinity and finally tempered by the bitterness of the herb. Eating marrowbones is as old as civilization — in a Norse legend, the mischievous god Loki prods a mortal into snapping open the roasted thighbone of one of Thor’s goats and sucking out the marrow. It is a transgressive act, feasting on an essence of the animal, which nature has guarded so fiercely. It is gross, greasy and wonderful.

Pizzeria Mozza has a fairly faithful rendition of Henderson’s marrowbone at the moment, roasted in the wood-burning oven, and served hot enough to do serious damage if you happen to touch the bone. But if I were going for the ultimate marrowbone experience in Los Angeles, I might still end up at the Beverly Hills steak house Cut, where the best single preparation may be the appetizer of marrow extracted from cooked veal bones, whirred with cream and egg yolk, then spooned back into the bones and baked in a warm-water bath until it sets into a kind of custard. It’s hard to imagine an improvement on an honestly roasted marrowbone, but Cut’s Lee Hefter just may have done the job. Cut is very, very expensive and hard to get into, but the marrowbone is cheerfully served in the bar a few steps across the lobby. 9500 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, (310) 276-8500.

Related Content

Related Locations

Now Trending

Slideshows

  • Daw Yee: Mission of Burma
    L.A. has a very small pool of Burmese restaurants; among them, Daw Yee does not boast the most extensive menu. Nonetheless, Daw Yee, in Monterey Park, is fascinating for one big reason — namely, that it gives L.A. something unusual: a Burmese restaurant that caters to younger diners.
  • The Year in L.A. Food (So Far)
    We've got so many restaurants, you could eat at a different joint every day of the year -- and probably the rest of your life -- and never go to the same place twice. It would be impossible (both physically and financially) to try them all, but luckily, you have us. Check out The Year in L.A. Food (So Far).
  • Ladies Gunboat Society at Flores
    At Ladies Gunboat Society, the new operation out of the restaurant that used to be Flores on Sawtelle Boulevard, the Hoppin’ John is served as an appetizer or a small plate rather than a side, and the price is the stuff of comedy.