All Hopped Up at The New Father's Office

Sang Yoon's latest is bigger and probably better than the original. But can you get a seat?

Comments (0) By Jonathan Gold Wednesday, May 7 2008

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Is the food perfect? Not quite yet. The Thai steak salad was made with microgreens and leaves of sparkling-fresh romaine lettuce, but the chile-citrus dressing was closer to the orange goop you may remember from your high school cafeteria than to what probably dressed your last order of neua nam tok. The pork ribs in a sticky reduction of oatmeal stout were glistening and gorgeous, but without heat or depth.

But one thing about the new Father’s Office — it’s a lot bigger than the first one, and your chances of acquiring a table, a bowl of curried mussels, a glass of exotic tap ale and an allotment of new friends at any given time are exponentially greater than they would be at the Santa Monica bar.

Anne Fishbein

Just the way he likes it: Sang Yoon's immutable burger.

Location Info

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Father's Office

3229 Helms Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90034

Category: Bars/Clubs

Region: West L.A.

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The food, at least in the opening weeks, is close to that served in the original bar: a few Spanish-style tapas; a few composed salads (a roasted-beet salad with Cabrales blue and sherry vinegar was especially good); and occasional fish specials, sauteed loup de mer last week. But you will inevitably get the famous no-substitutions cheeseburger, a soft, oozing patty garnished with blue cheese, a homeopathic dose of bacon and a thick blanket of deeply caramelized onions, served with a small forest’s worth of arugula on a hard-crusted French roll.

I have heard from several sources that when Yoon visited Osteria Mozza and asked whether he could order the pasta tasting for just two people instead of for the entire table, as was printed on the menu, Nancy Silverton said: “Only if you let me order a hamburger without cheese the next time I’m at your restaurant.”

Father’s Office Los Angeles, 3229 Helms Ave., L.A., (310) 815-9820 or www.fathersoffice.com. Kitchen open Mon.-Thurs., 5 p.m.-11 p.m.; Fri.-Sat., noon-mid; Sun., noon-10 p.m. Full bar. Lot parking. AE, MC, V. Patio. Nobody under 21 admitted. Dinner for two, food only, $24-$34.

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