Finding Happiness in a Slice of Ibérico Ham at Bar Pintxo

Paella, as with so many dishes that have been elevated to art, is notoriously among the most difficult dishes to cook perfectly, especially in Los Angeles. It is impractical for a restaurant to cook paella over a smoky wood fire, and it is impossible to find fresh snails that have gorged on rosemary. American customers and county health officials are probably uncomfortable with the room-temperature paella that seems to be the norm in Spain. I like paella dry, with a crunchy, well-developed crust. I love the swell, the intense flavor possible with bomba rice, which absorbs so much liquid, although it is ungodly expensive. At Bar Pintxo, the paella, flavored with things like cauliflower and salt cod, comes out from the kitchen in what look like plastic deli containers, it comes to the table in small paella pans, and although it tastes fine, the texture is sodden.

But still, there is that ham.

Anne Fishbein

A close shave: Chef Robert Trester slices Jamón Redondo Iglesias — not Ibérico, but with 18 months of age.

Anne Fishbein

A taste as old as cold water

Location Info

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Bar Pintxo

109 Santa Monica Blvd.
Santa Monica, CA 90401

Category: Bars/Clubs

Region: Santa Monica

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More About

• Anne Fishbein
• Jamon Redondo Iglesias
• Francis Bacon
• Spanish Food and Cooking
• Food and Cooking

“I thought the Ibérico was good, but it wasn’t like it was a revelatory experience,” confessed a friend. “Then over the course of the next few days, I found myself thinking of it more and more. Maybe it is $90 a pound, but I need a fix!”

Bar Pintxo, 109 Santa Monica Blvd., Santa Monica, (310) 458-2012 or www.barpintxo.com. Open daily noon-mid. Beer and wine. 45 minutes validated parking (but instead, park in one of the Second Street city lots). AE, MC, V. Small plates and tapas $3-$10, more for paella and Ibérico ham. Recommended dishes: Ibérico ham, croquetas, gambas al ajillo.

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