The New Du-par's: Over Easy
A not-too-extreme makeover, and a new spin on French toast
Have you ever had a Monte Cristo, a grease bomb of turkey, ham and cheese stuffed into a sandwich, dunked in an eggy batter and deep-fried? It is a frightening sandwich to behold and intimidating to eat, but not without its virtues, especially in Naylor's pocketbook-size version — if you wish to improve on the chef's excesses, it is traditional to dip the Monte Cristo into a small bowl of thoughtfully provided strawberry jam.
The French toast, the opposite of the soft, puddingy Du-par's classic, is of the egg-dipped-and-fried school, fringed with crisp bits, served with pots of melted butter and shrieking the virtues of good-quality bread — it comes across more like the outside of a Monte Cristo than it does like French toast. It is a tragedy unmitigated by the availability of banana cream pie.
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Du-Par's Restaurant & Bakery
6333 W. Third St.
Los Angeles, CA 90036
Category: Restaurant > American
Region: Melrose/ Beverly/ Fairfax
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Du-par's, 6333 W. Third St., L.A., (323) 933-8446; 12036 Ventura Blvd., Studio City, (818) 766-4437. Open daily 24 hours. Beer and wine. Takeout. Lot parking. AE, MC, V. Dinner for two, food only, $19-$48.
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