El Tepeyac The burrito is a symbol of abundance, the humble taco transformed into a plump, overstuffed creation. At El Tepeyac, the legendary East L.A. stand whose name has practically become synonymous with the burrito, the Hollenbeck, named after the local East L.A. police division, is more or less an old-line Mexican restaurant’s entire menu wrapped into a tortilla the size of a pillowcase — rice, beans, stewed meat, guacamole and lakes of melted cheese. 812 N. Evergreen Ave., E.L.A., (323) 267-8668. Breakfast, lunch and dinner Wed.–Mon. No alcohol. Street parking. Cash only. Entrées $3.75–$12. Mexican. JG G
Burbank/Glendale/Eagle Rock
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Millie's
3524 W. Sunset Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90026
Category: Restaurant > American
Region: Silver Lake
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Antequera De Oaxaca
5200 Melrose Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90038
Category: Restaurant > Mexican
Region: Hollywood
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AD?The Oinkster A converted Eagle Rock joint saturated with the smell of wood smoke, red roof gleaming in the late-afternoon sun, Oinkster is the newest child of André Guerrero, who is chef of Max and Señor Fred. Oinkster is a perfected fast-food restaurant, the old-school paradigm of pastrami, burgers and chicken reinvented for a new age. ``Slow fast food,’’ proclaims the sign outside: smoky Carolina-style pulled-pork sandwiches, chopped salad, and fast-food-style Angus-beef hamburgers with sweet housemade catsup. He roasts chickens on a creaky rotisserie and smokes his own pastrami. Would you be willing to pay a couple dollars extra to experience artisanal soda pop, Fosselman’s-based milkshakes and other fast food with a chefly edge? Guerrero is betting that you are. With all of the above, of course, it is necessary to have an order of Belgian fries, fried twice to leave them light and hot, their fluffy potato essence encased in a stiff, perfectly golden capsule of crunch. 2005 Colorado Blvd., Eagle Rock, (323) 255-OINK or www.oinkster.com. Open Mon.–Thurs. 11 a.m.–10 p.m., Fri.-Sat, 11 a.m.–11 p.m., Sun., 11 a.m.–9 p.m. AE, D, MC, V. No alcohol. Slow-cooked fast food. JGHL
Pasadena and vicinity
Briganti Some people with whom I am acquainted consider the Hollywood trattoria La Buca to be one of the great Italian restaurants in Los Angeles, a place to find perfect gnocchi, crisp-crusted pizza and pasta made with the care that only an Italian grandmother could bring to the job. Briganti, a rather sleeker restaurant from the same owner, is more or less a replica of La Buca on South Pasadena’s growing restaurant row, only with better furniture, easier parking and a patio perfect for sipping cool Orvieto on hot summer nights, but with the gnocchi recipe intact. Even if you are a La Buca regular, you may ask yourself where you have tasted rigatoni alla amatriciana, spaghetti with clams and pizza Margherita like Briganti’s, until the answer occurs to you: pretty much everywhere, especially if you have spent much time in the neo-Tuscan ghetto in Brentwood. Briganti, 1423 Mission St., S. Pasadena, (626) 441-4663, www.brigantirestaurant.com Lunch Mon.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m., dinner Mon.-Fri. 5:30-10 p.m. and Sat.-Sun. 5:30-10:30 pm. Full bar. Street and lot parking. AE, MC, V. Italian. JG INL
AB?Firefly Bistro Monique King’s Firefly Bistro — which she runs with husband and co-chef Paul Rosenbluh — is a comfortable restaurant, the kind of neighborhood place you drop into a couple of times a month because you like the idea of cornmeal-fried anchovies in your caesar salad, or of a paella that tastes more like an uptown version of jambalaya, or of a strawberry shortcake that just happens to be frosted with a superior lemon curd. Asian touches pop up now and again, and a few Mexican things, and quite a few folky flavors from Spain. (The tapas served to coincide with the Thursday-evening farmers market right outside the bistro’s doors have become a South Pasadena tradition.) But King’s culinary specialty is probably the food of the African-American diaspora, and the best dishes on the menu run toward things like crawfish jambalaya, and the pecan-crusted catfish fillets stacked up like poker chips. 1009 El Centro Ave., South Pasadena, (626) 441-2443. Lunch Tues.–Fri. 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m., brunch Sat.–Sun. 10 a.m.–2:30 p.m., dinner Tues.–Sun. 5:30–9:30 p.m. Beer and wine. Street parking. AE, D, MC, V. $14–$27. Modern American. JG ILM
Monterey Park/?San Gabriel and vicinity
AD?Green Village At Green Village, the cold roast duck, saturated with the essence of star anise and soy, tastes even better than the hot roast duck, which is saying a lot. When Green Village took up in a humbler San Gabriel location several years ago, its directness of flavor and use of vegetables set it apart from most of the Shanghai-style restaurants in town. This is still true — try the bean sheets with the amazing bitter green called gee-tsai — but don’t miss the braised pork knuckle, a jellied mass in a sea of brown gravy, garnished with a femur that resembles the one that the ape sent flying at the beginning of 2001: A Space Odyssey. 250 W. Valley Blvd., #M, San Gabriel, (626) 576-2228. Lunch daily 11:30 a.m.–3 p.m., dinner 3–10 p.m. Full bar. Underground lot parking. MC, V. JG HM
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