Little Malaysia Little Malaysia seems to concentrate on the Nonya cooking of Penang. But it’s when multiculturalism rears its head that things really start happening on the plate. The Hainanese chicken-rice dish is subtly fragrant with ginger. Curried fish head is delicately flavored and tartly sauced, although the job of digging out the fish’s cheeks, jowls and lips is hardly a dainty one. 3944 N. Peck Road, No. 8, El Monte, (626) 401-3188. Lunch and dinner. Tues.–Fri. 11 a.m.–2 p.m., 5:30 p.m.–9 p.m.; Sat.–Sun. 12 p.m.–9 p.m. No alcohol. Lot parking. Dinner for two, food only, $20. Cash only. Malaysian. JGGL
Satay Fong The Hong Kong Plaza Food Court may not seem a likely site for a culinary epiphany — but if you were to get your hands on a dripping, ink-black skewer of grilled pork at Satay Fong, you might be inclined to disagree. Like any Indonesian fast-food joint worth its kecap, Satay Fong’s menu revolves around variations on the basic nasi rames combination platter, foam plates containing dabs of three or four dishes, a mound of simmered rice, and a plastic cup or two of one chile sambal or another — maybe the mysterious but powerfully delicious roasted green-chile sauce hot enough to make the reputation of any Mexican restaurant in Los Angeles. Hong Kong Plaza Food Court, 989 S. Glendora Ave., No. 18, West Covina, (626) 337-1111. Open Tues.–Sun. noon–8 p.m. Cash only. No alcohol. JG $b
132 S. Central Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90012
Category: Restaurant > Japanese
Region: Downtown
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Burbank/Glendale/Eagle Rock
Le Petit Beaujolais This charming bakery and lunch spot is the offspring of Café Beaujolais, a small French restaurant that opened several years ago on the south side of the street. The bright, cheerful Beaujolais Boulangerie is delightful — or, as one friend happily sighed, “paradise.” The breakfast menu has been expanded to include egg dishes, and the lunch menu, available from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., offers an appealing selection of soups, quiches, sandwiches and meal-size salads. The cult favorite appears to be the croque monsieur. A central display case of desserts lures you in with jewel-toned fruit tarts, miniature cheesecakes and glassy-topped crème brûlée. In another case are baskets of pain au chocolat, pain aux raisins and croissants. The service is French and good-natured — so good-natured that the waiters let me practice my rudimentary Berlitz French on them. 1661 Colorado Blvd., Eagle Rock, (323) 255-5133. Tues.–Fri. 7 a.m.–4 p.m. Sat.–Sun. 8 a.m.–4 p.m. No alcohol. Street parking. Nothing over $11. MC, V. French. MH GL
Lola’s The tastiest roast chickens in the Los Angeles area, if not the Western Hemisphere itself, are the smoky rotisserie fowl beloved by the Peruvian community, the shotgun marriage of plump birds, roaring wood fires, and a sharp marinade made with citrus, chiles and immoderate amounts of garlic. And some of the best chickens of all are a couple blocks from the Glendale Galleria at a restaurant named Lola’s. With the chicken comes a small crock of aji, the doctored chile purée that serves as a universal Peruvian condiment, and maybe some hand-cut French fries, stewed beans, or the mayonnaisey potato salad that is for some reason a Peruvian standard. It is enough. 230 N. Brand Blvd., Glendale, (818) 956-5888. Lunch and dinner Mon. 11:30 a.m.–3 p.m., Tues.–Thurs. 11:30 a.m.–9 p.m., Fri.–Sat. 11:30 a.m.–10 p.m. Beer and wine. Takeout and delivery. Lot parking. Lunch or dinner for two, food only, $10–$22. MC, V. Peruvian. JG G
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