Slab City
On the meat trail, a lardo dream
Lardo for dessert? Unfortunately not — chestnut crepes, gooey rice cakes and such. But I can almost imagine a tart of roast apricots, arranged in a sweetened, lardo-infused crust.
Back in Los Angeles, of course, lardo is a scarcer commodity. The estimable proprietors of the shop Guidi Marcello in Santa Monica, who do import guanciale from Colonnata, shrug when you ask them why they don’t also bring in the town’s lardo — import regulations, they say. Cube features artisanal American and Italian charcuterie, including prosciutto di Langhirano, and Il Moro serves a wonderful plate of meats from the Emilia-Romagna accompanied by gnocco, the pillows of fried bread that restaurants in that region traditionally serve with prosciutto and culatello. At the newly opened Osteria Mozza, chef Matt Molina not only serves gnocco, but cures his own lardo to go with it.
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Guidi Marcello, 1649 10th St., Santa Monica, (310) 452-6277; Cube, 615 N. La Brea Ave., L.A., (323) 939-1148; Il Moro, 11400 W. Olympic Blvd., L.A., (310) 575-3530; Osteria Mozza, 6602 Melrose Ave., L.A., (323) 297-0100.
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2012 - Food & Drink
