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Apple Pan

The top and bottom buns of an Apple Pan burger are crisped and slightly oily, crunchy at the edges, working toward a near-complete softness at the middle; the pickles are resilient dill chips; the sheaf of fresh iceberg lettuce provides a dozen-layered crispness at the core. The beef, generally cooked to a perfect, pink-centered medium, is juicy and full flavored; the cheese, half melted to a kind of sharp graininess, is good Tillamook Cheddar. And come dessert time, no matter how many waiting people may be crowded in behind you, no matter how hungrily they stare at your enormous slice of pie, the veteran countermen will always draw you another cup of coffee from the gas-fired urn and hand it over with a dram of fresh, heavy cream. My family has been regulars at least since Lew Alcindor played freshman ball. 10801 W. Pico Blvd., W.L.A., (310) 475-3585. Sun.–Thurs. 11 a.m.–mid., Fri.–Sat. till 1 a.m. No alcohol. Takeout. Street parking. Cash only. American.$

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Apple Pan

10801 Pico Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90064

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: West L.A.

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Babita Mexicuisine

1823 S. San Gabriel Blvd.
San Gabriel, CA 91776

Category: Restaurant > Mexican

Region: Monterey Park/ Alhambra/ S. Gabriel

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Attari

An Attari sandwich is close to a perfect thing, a length of toasted French bread, a layer of main ingredient, and a dressing that includes fresh tomatoes, a handful of shredded lettuce and a smattering of spiced, supertart Iranian pickles that somehow manage to give the impression of a good Vienna-style hot dog “dragged through the garden,” as they say on Chicago’s West Side. One of the sandwiches at Attari, the sosess,is in fact filled with something closely resembling (if not verifiably) hot dogs, packed together as a bundle, a hot dog sandwich with the taste of Tehran. Attari’s leafy patio is a pleasant place where the clientele is as well-dressed as the lunch crowd at Spago. On Fridays, ab-gooshtis the closest thing there is in the restaurant world to an automatic order, an intricate lamb stew mashed into a thick, homogeneous paste with the texture of refried beans, and an expressed liquid, the soul of the dish, served separately as soup. 1388 Westwood Blvd. (entrance on Wilkins), Wstwd., (310) 441-5488. Tues.–Sun. 11 a.m.–10 p.m. No alcohol. Takeout. Street parking, plus validated lot parking at Borders. MC, V. Iranian. $

A-Won

Just south of L.A.’s oldest Thai-restaurant neighborhood, tucked away in a mini-mall where the Lexuses pack together as tightly as grains of rice in a bowl, A-Won is one of Koreatown’s oldest sushi restaurants, a temple of raw halibut and sliced chiles, a serene but well-worn place where the high-backed booths are as private as little cabanas and the soju flows like water. Marinated sea cucumber, massive portions and the habit of eating sashimi with raw garlic have their fans, but the great Korean contribution to the world’s sushi kitchen is probably hwe dup bap, an elaborate raw-fish salad leavened with dried seaweed and hot rice and flavored with chile paste. And at A-Won, a Koreatown institution devoted to the cult of hwe dup bap, the display is formidable: order after order racing out of the kitchen in bowls as big as Valkyrie helmets. Good hwe dup bap — and A-Won’s is very good — is as alive and vivid and evanescent as a wildflower, the taste of the spring’s first asparagus, or the throwaway phrase in a Lily Allen song that breaks your heart. 913½ S. Vermont Ave., L.A., (213) 389-6764. Mon.–Sat. 11 a.m.–11 p.m.; Sun. 4–11 p.m. AE, MC, V. Beer and soju. Takeout. Guarded lot parking. Korean sushi. $$

Babita

Something close to the platonic ideal of a Southern California Mexican restaurant, Babita is a comfortable place that just happens to have great food, a rough-edged Eastside joint whose service is burnished to a white-tablecloth sheen. Chef-owner Roberto Berrelleza, who spent years as a waiter and maitre d’ at places like the Brown Derby before he ever picked up a pan, is a modern master of Mexican cuisine, including antojitos from his hometown of Los Mochis in Sinaloa — and a few classic dishes that seem to have been invented by Berrelleza himself: his fish-stuffed yellow chiles in strawberry salsa, his seared fish with huitlacoche vinaigrette and his oozy, porky chiles en nogada. (The latter is seasonal, September to January.) His shrimp Topolobampo, named after a seaport just outside of Los Mochis, may still be the single fieriest invention in the history of Los Angeles cuisine, a citrusy sauté of white wine, tomatoes and diced habanero peppers that takes over its victims’ bodies like an Ebola infection. The sensation isn’t anguish, exactly — the endorphin rush tends to kick in before the pain receptors realize something has gone terribly, terribly wrong — as much as it is a total, irrevocable loss of control. 1823 S. San Gabriel Blvd., San Gabriel, (626) 288-7265. Lunch Tues.–Fri. 11:30 a.m.–3:30 p.m.; dinner Sun. & Tues.–Thurs. 5:30–9 p.m., Fri.–Sat. 5:30–10 p.m. Beer and wine. Takeout. Street parking. AE, D, DC, MC, V. Mexican. $$

Bar Marmont

If you don’t mind the occasional Jay-Z sighting — and Britney sighting, and Leo sighting, and Paris sighting, and Axl sighting — Bar Marmont is everything you could want in a gastropub: lethal cocktails, intimate nooks, and the killer cooking of Carolynn Spence, who was chef de cuisine at NYC’s notorious Spotted Pig for its first months. Her menu, while far less offal-intensive than Spotted Pig’s, is very close to it in spirit — Italian-influenced small plates, great burgers, diver scallops in brown butter, oxtail bruschettas, a good small wine list and drinks. Lots of drinks. As well as a juicy roast-lamb sandwich and halibut with an inspired deconstruction of Spanish romesco sauce, and delicious goat’s-milk ricotta gnocchi. And the kitchen stays open until midnight. 8171 Sunset Blvd., W. Hlywd., (323) 650-0575. Daily 6 p.m.–2 a.m. Full bar. Valet parking. AE, MC, V. American. $$

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