Meals by Genet
Among all the kitsch and incense of Fairfax Avenue’s Little Ethiopia, Meals by Genet stands out as an Ethiopian bistro, which is to say a homey, soft-lit dining room that looks at least as French as it does African. The menu is short: crisp-skinned fried trout, half a dozen stews, and Genet Agonafer’s delicious version of kitfo, a dish of minced raw beef tossed with warm, spiced butter. And her dorowot is jaw-droppingly good, vibrating with what must be ginger and black pepper and bishop’s weed and clove, but tasting of none of them, so formidably solid that the chicken, which is well-cooked, becomes just another ingredient in the sauce. Even an Ethiopian grandmother would approve. 1053 S. Fairfax Ave., L.A., (323) 938-9304 or www.mealsbygenet.com. Wed.–Sun. 5:30 p.m.–10 p.m. Beer and wine. Catering. Street parking. MC, V. Ethiopian. $$
10801 Pico Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90064
Category: Restaurant > American
Region: West L.A.
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1823 S. San Gabriel Blvd.
San Gabriel, CA 91776
Category: Restaurant > Mexican
Metro Café
Metro Café is everybody’s favorite secret restaurant, a faux-’50s diner attached to a stucco chain motel that just happens to serve grilled trout on garlicky greens alongside its patty melts and chef salads, white-bean soup flavored with ham imported from a Santa Monica deli, or a grilled trout, nothing fancy, plopped on a bed of garlicky greens. If the owners are feeling charitable, there may be crepes for dessert, special, secret crepes stuffed with Nutella and raspberry jam. Shhhh. 11188 Washington Place, Culver City, (310) 559-6821. Breakfast and lunch 7 a.m.–3 p.m.; dinner 6–10 p.m. Beer and wine. Parking in Travelodge lot. MC, V. Serbian. $
Michael’s
Back in its Nouvelle Cuisine days, Michael’s may have been the first market-oriented restaurant in Southern California, a showcase not just of glorious art — Rauschenberg, Stella, Graham, Hockney — but of tiny vegetables, local meats, California wines and luxury foodstuffs identified by port of origin. There still may be no better afternoons in Los Angeles than those spent on Michael’s garden patio, hefting Christofle silver, inhaling Dungeness crab salad, house-made gravlax, tweaked yellowtail sashimi and an oaky, buttery Napa Chardonnay with just enough bottle age. Michael’s still feels a little like an exclusive party that somebody forgot to invite us to. 1147 Third St., Santa Monica, (310) 451-0843. Mon.–Fri. noon–2:30 p.m. & 6–10:30 p.m., Sat. 6–10:30 p.m. Full bar. Nonsmoking, including patio. Takeout. Valet and street parking. All major CC. California. $$$
Mimosa
The French bistro is no longer as underrepresented in Los Angeles as it was even a few years ago, when the permanent dominance of neo-Tuscan cooking in the city seemed like a given. It seems as if half the new restaurants in town these days feature housemade charcuterie, duck salad and French country wines. But in few of these new bistros is there anything like the pleasure one finds in Jean-Pierre Bosc’s well-worn restaurant — the exemplary steak frites, the pâté, the roast chicken, the super-funky andouilettes. Bosc’s signature “tarte tatin” of pungently herbed tomatoes on a buttery puff-pastry tart shell smeared with pesto is the sort of dish you’d like to eat every night; so is the Alsatian-style tarte flambée and the thick, proper Provençal fish soup. Dinner at Mimosa resembles one at an ordinary bistro in almost every way except one: The food is really good. 8009 Beverly Blvd., L.A., (323) 655-8895. Dinner Mon.–Sat. 6–10:30 p.m. Beer and wine. Valet and street parking. AE, D, MC, V. Reservations recommended on weekends. French Bistro. $$
Musso & Frank Grill
Before Musso & Frank Grill became a martini-fueled Hollywood clubhouse, the place where Faulkner blew out his liver and generations of character actors learned to show up on Wednesday for the chicken pot pie, the restaurant was practically a showcase for what was then considered California cuisine, a genteel marriage of the local produce, abundant local fisheries and masculinized lunchroom cooking: avocado cocktails smeared with sweet, pink dressing and frigid bowls of chilled consommé; great, naked planks of boiled finnan haddie and dainty plates of crab Louie; creamy Welsh rabbit served over crustless triangles of toast and kidneys Turbigo. This is what the cosmopolitan life was like, before cosmopolitans. 6667 Hollywood Blvd., Hlywd., (323) 467-7788. Tues.–Sat. 11 a.m.–11 p.m. Full bar. Validated parking in rear. AE, DC, MC, V. American. $$
Noodle House
It is always fried bao time at this Taiwanese breakfast specialist, fluffy, steamed pork buns sizzled until their bottoms crisp up like eggs fried in oil and the jellied juices of the pork heat and melt until they are pressurized enough to rocket across the table the moment that your teeth breach the substance of the dough. The buns, a lucky eight of them, are served browned-side up, arranged into a bao fairy ring connected by a gauzy scrim of batter. You detach a bun and dunk it into a bowl of spicy garlic-infused soy sauce. The sauce-saturated pastry assumes a soft, mousseline texture; the soy mingles with hot porky essence; the buns seem to hop into your mouth one after another as if propelled by an alien force. When you are done, there are is delicious soy milk and Tianjin pancakes to contemplate, which is to say northern-Chinese-style burritos stuffed with freshly fried crullers. 46 W. Las Tunas Dr., Arcadia, (626) 821-2088. Daily Tues.–Sun. 7 a.m.–9 p.m. No alcohol. Cash only. ¢
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