Brings All the Boys to the Yard

Milk

Comments (0) By Jonathan Gold Wednesday, Mar 21 2007

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Milk

7290 Beverly Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90036

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Melrose/ Beverly/ Fairfax

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The first thing you should know about Milk, Bret Thompson’s new dairy-intensive café in the Art Deco space that used to house Richard Tyler’s atelier, is that it doesn’t actually serve milk, at least not cold, frothy and unmodified in a glass, the way that some of the best ice cream places in Italy and Spain tend to do. (There are a few glass bottles of Broguieres in the takeout case, and ice-blended milk flavored with chocolate or bitter caramel.) I had been driving past the building site for months, fantasizing about Straus, Oberweis and Ronnybrook on tap, varietal tastings pitting Holstein against Jersey, and possibly a selection of exotic milks, like goat, sheep and buffalo. Instead, the clean, white café serves pastries that run the gamut from bacon-and-Cheddar scones to garish, Smurf-colored blue velvet cakes; crunchy pressed sandwiches — one of prosciutto, pecorino and red bliss potatoes was especially good — and house-made ice cream “Milkys” (delicious bonbons) at $3 a dozen. When I brought three dozen Milkys into the office the other day, they drew crowds like the Pied Piper.

There are ice cream cones too, of course, and milky hot chocolate. But the dish that impressed me the most was a soup of puréed farmers market cauliflower flavored with black butter and currants, a soup at least one colleague found even more compelling than a toffee Milky. To each her own, I say. 7290 Beverly Blvd., L.A., (323) 939-6455.