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Kiriko Sushi
11301 W. Olympic Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90064
Category: Restaurant > Asian
Region: West L.A.
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LA99 101 Noodle Express You could drive by this mini-mall café place a thousand times without easing up on the gas. But the restaurant is home to the Shandong-style beef roll, a splendid object of desire, a massive, bronzed construction of crisp Chinese pancakes, slivers of stewed beef and a sweet, house-made bean paste that bears the same relationship to ordinary hoisin sauce that a L’Orangerie’s demi-glacé might to a slug of canned brown gravy. It is a simple composition, and yet not; ordinary street food, but raised to the transcendent level of a great carne asada taco or a Modena housewife’s very best homemade tortellini. The actual house specialty of this Shandong-style café is dezhou chicken, a tan, tender bird that has been simmered with soy sauce and spices, served at room temperature in all of its plain, wrinkly splendor. 1408 E. Valley Blvd., Alhambra, (626) 300-8654. Mon.-Fri. 10 a.m.-3 p.m. & 5-10 p.m. Sat.-Sun. 10 a.m.-11 p.m. No alcohol. Takeout. Lot parking. Cash only. Chinese. JG $b[At luptat
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