Where To Eat Now

 LA99  Hungry Cat The best hamburger in Los Angeles? It may be the pug ­burger at Hungry Cat, an oozingly juicy patty of beef dressed with onions and full-fat blue cheese on a crusty La Brea Bakery roll, a $14 hamburger that leaves Hollywood’s other high-end hamburgers dog-paddling in the relish. And Hungry Cat doesn’t even specialize in burgers — it is Suzanne Goin’s answer to Swan Oyster Depot in San Francisco, a place to drop into for a dozen oysters or a bowl of shrimp, a boiled crab or a bowl of chowder. The wine list is tiny, but includes a ton of obscure seafood-friendly wines, and everything is available by the glass. 1535 N. Vine St., Hlywd., (323) 462-2155, www.thehungrycat.com. Lunch Tues.-Fri. 11:30 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; brunch Sun. 11 a.m.-3 p.m.; dinner Mon.-Sat. 5:30 p.m.-mid., Sun. 5-11 p.m. Beer and wine. Validated parking. AE, MC, V. Seafood. JG $$Â

Mid-Wilshire/Koreatown/Central Los Angeles

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Kiriko Sushi

11301 W. Olympic Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90064

Category: Restaurant > Asian

Region: West L.A.

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Orris

2006 Sawtelle Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90025

Category: Restaurant > Asian

Region: West L.A.

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More About

• Hollywood
• Chinatown
• LA99 Cora
• Sushi
• Main Dish Recipes

 LA99  Guelaguetza Are you in the mood for fried grasshoppers with chile and lime? Even if you aren’t, at Guelaguetza, the best of the Oaxacan-style restaurants by far, you’ll find dishes you may have only read about in cookbooks or glossy magazines. At the original Koreatown location of Guelaguetza, not far from the biggest concentration of Oaxacan restaurants and bakeries this side of Oaxaca itself, you’ll find tortilla-like tlayudas the size of manhole covers, delicate beverages made from squash, and delicious, mole-drenched tamales. The black mole, based on ingredients the restaurant brings up from Oaxaca, is rich with chopped chocolate and burnt grain, toasted chile, and wave upon wave of textured spice — it’s as simple yet as nuanced as a great, old Côte Rôtie. 3337½ W. Eighth St., L.A., (213) 427-0779. Open daily 8 a.m.-10 p.m. No alcohol. Street parking. AE, MC, V. Oaxacan. JG ¢b

West Hollywood/?La Cienega

 LA99  Bridge Restaurant & Lounge Bridge is the newest restaurant from the group that owns Koi, which means that the music is banging, the guy at the next table really is Ludacris, and the food, pan-peninsular Italian in this case, tends to be light, based on impeccable ingredients, and lovely to behold: thin petals of vitello tonnato arranged like fugu sashimi; delicate asparagus ravioli with butter and sage; a truly lovely, Koi-quality tuna tartare. The quality of the Italian cooking here will never quite measure up to that of the glorious prime of Alto Palato, which used to occupy this space, but the cuisine can be almost as sparkling as the crowd. 755 N. La Cienega Blvd., W. Hlywd., (310) 659-3535 or www.bridgela.com. Restaurant: Mon.-Sat. 6-11 p.m. Lounge: 8 p.m.-2 a.m. Full bar. Street and valet parking. AE, MC, V. Italian.JG $$$Â?

LA99  Sona What we know as California cuisine may be dedicated to revealing produce at its best, but David Myers goes after nature with blowtorches and microtomes and dynamite, determined to bend the old woman to their will. A sliver of watermelon may be less a sliver of watermelon than a wisp in a chilled soup, a salted crunch tracing the shape of a curl of marinated yellowtail, a glistening cellophane window into the soul of a pistachio, a texture in a sorbet, a jelly exposing its cucumberlike soul. The morning after nine courses at Sona (this is one restaurant where only the tasting menu will do), it will already seem like a half-forgotten dream. 401 N. La Cienega Blvd., W. Hlywd., (310) 659-7708. Dinner Tues.-Thurs. 6-10 p.m., Fri. 6-11 p.m., Sat. 5:30-11 p.m. Closed Sun.-Mon. Full bar. Valet parking. AE, D, DC, MC, V. $30-$40. Modern French (with global influences). JG $$$[

Westwood/West L.A./Century City

 LA99  Kiriko Kiriko may be the great undiscovered sushi bar in Los Angeles, and Ken Namba’s traditional yet creative sashimi surpasses most of what is sold at three times the price. Namba smokes his salmon over smoldering cherry wood, slices it thick and wraps it around spears of ripe mango: The sashimi is soft and luscious, salty and sweet, penetratingly smoky yet delicate — one of the most magnificent mouthfuls of food imaginable. One of the gifts of a great sushi chef is the ability to appear casual, unhurried, processing the food for an entire restaurant while looking as serene and unbothered as a flirting Fred Astaire. 11301 Olympic Blvd., No. 102, West L.A., (310) 478-7769. Lunch Tues.-Fri. noon-2:15 p.m.; dinner Tues.-Sun. 6-10 p.m. Beer and wine. Parking lot. AE, MC, V. Japanese. JG $$$

LA99  Orris Is Orris in any sense a sushi bar? No. It is a great place to drop in for new-age sashimi like smoked scallops garnished with salmon roe, seared tuna with sweet onion marmalade, or even what amounts to lamb sashimi. Its location, convenient to the Nuart and the manga-intensive shopping strip anchored by the Giant Robot complex, couldn’t be better, and the small sake selection is swell. 2006 Sawtelle Blvd., W.L.A., (310) 268-2212. Dinner Mon.-Fri. 6-10 p.m., Sat. 5:30-10:30 p.m., Sun. 5:30-9:30 p.m. Beer, wine and sake. Lot parking (valet Wed.-Sat.). AE, D, MC, V. $6.50-$14 per dish.Small-plate cuisine. JG $$b[