Naked Pasta

Dear Mr. Gold:

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Bar Marmont

8171 Sunset Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90046

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Hollywood

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More About

• Jonathan Gold
• Jay-Z
• West Village
• Food and Cooking
• Eating Out

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At the Spotted Pig, a restaurant in the West Village unfortunately better known for Jay-Z sightings than for the food, which is really good, you can get something called gnudi, which to my untutored eye look a lot like herbed ricotta gnocchi, although they’re supposed to be closer to ravioli without the pasta. Whatever. They’re delicious and they’re Atkins-friendly, which is all I care about. Are there gnudi on this side of the world, or am I destined to die fat and unloved?

—Susan, Canoga Park

Dear Susan:

If you don’t mind the occasional Jay-Z sighting — and Britney sighting, and Leo sighting, and Paris sighting, and Axl sighting — there is always Bar Marmont, whose chef, Carolynn Spence, was in the kitchen at Spotted Pig for its first months, and whose menu, while reproducing none of the Spotted Pig’s famous dishes, is very close to it in spirit — Italian-influenced small plates, great burgers, a good small wine list and drinks. Lots of drinks. As well as a juicy roast-lamb sandwich and an inspired deconstruction of Spanish Romesco sauce. Will you find the gnudi? Not quite. But there is a suspiciously familiar-looking dish of naked ravioli that I think you might enjoy. And the kitchen stays open until midnight. 8171 Sunset Blvd., W. Hlywd., (323) 650-0575.

—Jonathan Gold