Flesh and Bone

There are at least a few dishes with the air of classics about them at Cut, dishes you would swear were plucked from the pages of Escoffier but seem to be straight from Hefter’s brain — for example, the appetizer of marrow extracted from roasted veal bones, whirred with cream and egg yolk, then spooned back into the bones and baked in a warm-water bath until the custard is set. There are few dishes in the world more delicious than Fergus Henderson’s roasted marrow bones at St. John in London, on which Hefter’s version is clearly modeled. Cut’s version, like Henderson’s, is served with coarse salt, slices of toasted brioche and a little salad of parsley chopped just enough to tame its weedy overtones. But Cut’s marrow bones may be even better, with all the richness, all the flavor, all the slightly transgressive sensation of feasting on a part of the animal that nature has so fiercely guarded, without quite the grossness — the charred ends, the charnel-house smell, the random pools of searing, liquid grease — that you sometimes find in the simpler preparation.

The potato “tarte tatin” is another Hefter invention I thought I would find in Escoffier, Pomiane or even Robuchon’s brilliant little book of potato recipes, but it too seems to be an original, a sort of melting potato dauphinoise completely encased in a thin, crunchy sheath of potatoes Anna, a crackly, buttery crispness giving way to the forthright creaminess of long-simmered spuds, close to, but more complex than, the potato cake at the Parisian bistro L’Ami Louis that may have been its inspiration. Fourteen dollars is a lot to pay for a side dish of potatoes, but it may be a reasonable price for art.

chef de cuisine Ari Rosenson shows off the porterhouse for two with sautéed beef marrow. (Photos by Anne Fishbein)

Omar Rodriguez, like a beef sommelier, presents Cut’s Japanese and Kobe beef.

Location Info

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Cut Beverly Hills

9500 Wilshire Blvd.
Beverly Hills, CA 90212

Category: Restaurant > California

Region: Beverly Hills

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More About

• Wolfgang Puck
• Lee Hefter
• Richard Meier
• Eating Out
• Meat

Cut, 9500 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, (310) 276-8500. Dinner Mon.–Sat. Full bar. Valet parking. AE, D, MC, V. California Contemporary. Main courses, $38–$160. Recommended ­dishes: bone-marrow flan, warm veal-tongue salad.