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 LA99  Woodlands. In the afternoons, Woodlands is strictly a buffet restaurant, and on the steam table you’ll find the crunchy fried-lentil doughnuts called vada, puffs of poori bread, buttery rounds of paratha, knobby lumps of limp vegetable pakora, and a vat of Woodlands’ special lemon rasam, a thin, peppery Tamil vegetable sauce for rice that doubles as a soup and a healing tonic. Depending on the chef’s mood, you may find something mysteriously identified as moore khulambzu, a tart, runny, complex curry of yogurt and tiny fried-lentil dumplings that is among the best Indian dishes we have ever tasted. 9840 Topanga Canyon Blvd., Chatsworth, (818) 998-3031. Also at 11833 Artesia Blvd., Artesia, (562) 860-6500.Tues.–Sun. 11:30 a.m.–3 p.m. & 5–10 p.m. Beer and wine. Takeout. Lot parking. AE, MC, V. $7.95 lunch buffet Tues.–Fri., $9.95 brunch buffet Sat.–Sun. Indian. JG $$b[

South Bay/LAX

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Izakaya Haru Ulala

368 E. Second St.
Los Angeles, CA 90012

Category: Restaurant > Japanese

Region: Downtown

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 LA99  Al-Watan. A bare, smoky dining room adjacent to a Muslim butcher shop, Al-Watan is the summit of basic Pakistani cooking in Los Angeles, spicy, meaty, and deeply inflected by the flavors of ginger, cardamom and chiles, with some of the most vividly smoky tandoor-cooked meats you will ever taste. First among the stews is haleem, beef braised with shredded wheat until it breaks down into a thick gravy with the flavor of well-browned roast-beef drippings, but as meaty as Al-Watan may be, even vegetarians can be happy here: Navratan korma, a mixture of cauliflower, green beans and carrots stir-fried with chile and plenty of spices, is like a wonderful Muslim ratatouille. 13611 Inglewood Ave., Hawthorne, (310) 644-6395. Open daily 11 a.m.–10 p.m. No alcohol. Takeout. Street parking. MC, V. Indian. JG $b

Dinah’s Restaurant. The oven-baked German pancake at this Westchester-proximate coffee shop feeds three: It’s brown around the edges, crisp and spongy like a giant Yorkshire pudding, thickening into a dense, moist, springy crepe as you descend into the pancake’s interior. Less voracious appetites may wish to try the extra-cinnamony apple pancakes, or the thin, crisp Swedish pancakes, or the potato pancakes, sour, lacy-edged crepes that happen to have a little grated potato stirred into them. 6521 Sepulveda Blvd., Los Angeles, (310) 645-0456. Breakfast, lunch and dinner Mon.–Sun. 6 a.m.–10 p.m. Beer and wine. Takeout. Lot parking. Breakfast for two, food only, $6–$14. AE, DC, MC, V. American. JG $b

South Los Angeles

Kotohira. Kotohira is one of the few places in the United States that still makes udon by hand: thick, white and long, diminishing to squiggles at the ends, clean in flavor, with the bouncy resiliency of elastic ropes. Whether dunked in fish soup or anointed with curry; hot in a bowl or cold on a mat; or dry in a bowl and garnished with ginger, green onion and wisps of freshly shaved bonito — the wheaty sweetness of the noodles, set off by the clean smoky smack of the dried bonito, is among the most delicious things you have ever eaten. 1747 W. Redondo Beach Blvd., Gardena, (310) 323-3966. Lunch and dinner, Wed.–Mon. 11:30 a.m.–11 p.m. Beer and sake. Lot parking. Dinner for two, food only, $15–$19. MC, V. Japanese. JG ¢[

Sanuki No Sato. Udon noodles come in all the standard flavors: topped with crisp buttons of tempura batter in a plain soy-enriched broth, or with chewy bits of rice cake, or with exquisitely slimy Japanese mountain yams. Yukinabe udon — served in a rustic-looking iron kettle and buried beneath half an inch of grated daikon, a sprinkling of grated wasabi and a ferociously spiced cod-egg sac — is an exotic bowl you could eat every day. 18206 S. Western Ave., Gardena, (310) 324-9184. Open seven days, 11:30 a.m.–2:30 p.m. and 5:30–10 p.m. Beer and wine. Lot parking. Lunch or dinner for two, food only, $13–$36. AE, DC, MC, V. Japanese. JG $b[

East Los Angeles

Mariscos Sinaloa. Think simple, beachy seafood. Mariscos Sinaloa, in a converted Taco Bell, serves competent ceviches, basic tostadas topped with sliced avocado and things like octopus or shrimp, and straightforward seafood botanas, which are the Mexican equivalent of tapas more or less. It’s a pleasant place to spend an afternoon, out on the patio, watching the world pass by. 5633 York Blvd., Highland Park, (323) 258-6823. Open daily 9 a.m.–8:30 p.m. No alcohol. Takeout. Parking in rear. Dinner for two, food only, $4–$22. Regional Mexican. JG ¢?b

Tacos el Michoacano. This is a modest Michoacán-style takeout restaurant with a photo menu by the register and worn vinyl booths along the walls. The state is famous throughout Mexico for its take on fried pork, and El Michoacano’s is first-rate: crunchy, oozing and slightly gamy. And on each table is a molcajete half-filled with the majestic house salsa, dried chiles toasted black, ground into a fine paste and finished simply with oil and salt. Some days, I think I could live on that chile paste and El Michoacano’s great strawberry licuados alone. 5933 York Blvd., Highland Park, (323) 258-0794. Open daily 7 a.m.–8 p.m. No alcohol. Takeout Dinner for two, food only, $2–$6. Regional Mexican. JG ¢b

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