Where To Eat Now

Bridge Restaurant & Lounge. Bridge is the newest restaurant from the group that owns Koi, which means that the music is banging, the guy at the next table really is Ludacris, and the food, pan-peninsular Italian in this case, tends to be light, based on impeccable ingredients, and lovely to behold: thin petals of vitello tonnato arranged like fugu sashimi; delicate asparagus ravioli with butter and sage; a truly lovely, Koi-quality tuna tartare. 755 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood, (310) 659-3535, www.bridgela.com. Restaurant Mon.–Sat. 6–11 p.m. Lounge 8 p.m.–2 a.m. Full bar. Street and valet parking. AE, MC, V. Italian. JG $$$

Grace. If Los Angeles restaurants are like rock bands, Neal Fraser is the glamorous indie-rock hero, a chef with a wobbly, idiosyncratic style that couldn’t be further from the finish-fetish crowd pleasers, a detailed, market-oriented sort of New American cuisine, heavy on French technique and inspired by the strong flavors and intricate presentations of New York chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten. 7360 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 934-4400. Tues.–Thurs. 6–10:30 p.m., Fri.–Sat. 6–11 p.m., Sun. 6–10 p.m. Full bar. Valet parking; difficult street parking. AE, MC, V. American. JG $$$

Location Info

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Edendale Grill

2838 Rowena Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90039

Category: Restaurant > American

Region: Northeast L.A.

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Gingergrass

2396 Glendale Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90039

Category: Restaurant > Vietnamese

Region: Northeast L.A.

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• Asia (Band)
• Santa Monica
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• Eating Out

Koi. It is widely believed, however, that the post-Matsuhisa-style cuisine at Koi is an afterthought, that the avocado-laden tuna tartare on crispy won tons, the tuna sashimi with jalapeño, and the albacore Italiano are secondary to the rush, the scene, even the steak. But somebody has been paying attention behind the sushi bar lately. 730 N. La Cienega Blvd., Los Angeles, (310) 659-9449. Dinner Mon.–Wed. 6–11 p.m., Thurs. 6–11:30 p.m., Fri.–Sat. 6–mid., Sun. 6–10 p.m. Full bar. Valet parking. All major credit cards. California Contemporary. JG $$$

Westwood/West L.A./Century City Attari. If you grew up in pre-revolution Tehran, this leafy patio is probably the café of your dreams, a pleasant place where the sandwiches are made with Iranian vegetable cutlets or extravagantly dressed hot dogs, and the clientele is as well-dressed as the lunch crowd at Spago. On Fridays, ab-goosht is the closest thing there is in the restaurant world to an automatic order, an intricate lamb stew mashed into a thick, homogeneous paste with the texture of refried beans, and an expressed liquid, the soul of the dish, served separately as soup. 1388 Westwood Blvd., Westwood (entrance on Wilkins), (310) 441-5488. Tues.–Sun. 11 a.m.–10 p.m. No alcohol. Street parking, plus validated lot parking at Borders. MC, V. Iranian. JG $

Clementine. At lunchtime, there may be no happier place in Los Angeles than Annie Miler’s cheerful takeout café across from Century City, home to Southern-ham biscuits, a showcaseful of carefully composed roast-vegetable salads, and an anthology’s worth of grilled cheese sandwiches crisped in an Italian sandwich press. The hot chocolate, made in the style of the Parisian tearoom Angelina, is a local legend. 1751 Ensley Ave., West Los Angeles, (310) 552-1080, www.clementineonline.com. Mon.–Fri. 7 a.m.–7:30 p.m., Sat. 8 a.m.–5 p.m. No alcohol. Parking in rear lot and on street. AE, DC, MC, V. American. JG $

Nook. Sometimes you get the feeling that the owners of Nook are running less an American bistro than a joke about an American bistro. As faithfully as they reproduce the fundamentals of the kinds of fancily unfancy restaurants that pepper every urban neighborhood from San Diego to Augusta, Maine, they are also poking fun at them with every dried-cranberry garnish and each day-boat scallop, each obscure Belgian beer and each boutique Oregon Pinot Noir, each crusty roast chicken and dish of iconic macaroni and cheese. 11628 Santa Monica Blvd., No. 9, West Los Angeles, (310) 207-5160, www.nookbistro.com. Lunch Mon.–Fri. 11:30 a.m.–3 p.m.; dinner Mon.–Sat. 5–10 p.m. Beer and wine. Lot parking. AE, MC, V. American Bistro. JG $$

Orris. Is Orris in any sense a sushi bar? No. It is a great place to drop in for new-age sashimi like smoked scallops garnished with salmon roe, seared tuna with sweet onion marmalade, or even what amounts to lamb sashimi. Its location, convenient to the Nuart and the manga-intensive shopping strip anchored by the Giant Robot complex, couldn’t be better, and the small sake selection is swell. 2006 Sawtelle Blvd., West Los Angeles, (310) 268-2212. Dinner Tue.–Fri. 6–10 p.m., Sat. 5:30–10:30 p.m., Sun. 5:30–9:30 p.m. Beer, wine and sake. Lot parking (valet Wed.–Sat.). AE, D, MC, V. Small-plate cuisine. JG $$

Beverly Hills and vicinity  Cut. Have you ever tasted Kobe beef — not the admittedly decent American wagyu from the same breed of cow, but the real stuff, the $200-a-pound steaks imported from Japan? If you happen to be at Wolfgang Puck’s new steak house, Cut, which at the moment is probably the best steakhouse in the world that doesn’t happen to be in either Tokyo or Buenos Aires, and you happen to have in front of you what would ordinarily be a perfectly splendid corn-fed Nebraska strip steak, aged 35 days, seared at 1,200 degrees then finished over oak to a ruddy, juicy medium rare, and garnished, perhaps with bone marrow, you would take one bite of your neighbor’s Kobe steak and look around for rocks to throw at your own hunk of meat. 9500 Wilshire Blvd., Beverly Hills, (310) 276-8500. Dinner Mon.–Thurs. 5:30 p.m. - 10 p.m., Fri.-Sat. 5:30 p.m.- 11 p.m. Full bar. Valet parking a half-block south of Wilshire Blvd. on Rodeo Drive. AE, D, MC, V. California Contemporary. JG $$$