Hatfield’s. In restaurants as in actresses, forced quirkiness can be an unforgivable flaw. But some restaurants, like the comfortable, modern Hatfield’s near Hollywood, can’t help themselves. Instead of merlot and Chianti, there is a weirdly wonderful list of old Loire whites, stern reds from Austria and the Italian Alps, and German “champagne.” The croque madame sandwich is made with yellowtail and prosciutto instead of Gruyère cheese and pale ham, and tentacles of Japanese octopus just happen to curl around pillars of vanilla-braised hearts of palm. 7458 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 935-2977. Mon.–Sat. 6–10 p.m. Full Bar. AE, MC, V. California Contemporary. JG $$
Lou. If pigs had their way, pig candy would be made out of chocolate — better yet, out of chocolate that made its way into their troughs. But for better or worse, pig candy is the vernacular name for a snack made out of smoky, thick-cut bacon baked with lots and lots of brown sugar until it transforms itself into demonically fragrant slabs that bear more than a passing resemblance to pork-belly terrine. You want some of this stuff. Really you do. Lou, a tiny, wonderful wine bar on the south end of Vine, serves a pretty decent range of artisanal cheeses, the garlic-laced salamis of Seattle’s Armandino Batali, and slivers of Kentucky ham. 724 N. Vine St., Hollywood, (323) 962-6369. Mon.–Thurs. 5–11 p.m., Fri.–Sat. 5 p.m.–mid. Wine. Lot parking. MC, V. California Contemporary. JG $$
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Edendale Grill
2838 Rowena Ave.
Los Angeles, CA 90039
Category: Restaurant > American
Region: Northeast L.A.
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Gingergrass
2396 Glendale Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90039
Category: Restaurant > Vietnamese
Region: Northeast L.A.
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Red Corner Asia. The signature attraction at Red Corner Asia is a phenomenon known as Volcano Chicken, a rotisserie-cooked creation brought to the table trailing liquid streamers of fire, rising from the flames like a phoenix, whole and reborn and new as the day. Red Corner Asia describes itself as a Thai grill, and although you will find all the usual Thai curries, pan-fried noodles and crocks of chicken-coconut soup, the emphasis is on the gentler products of Thai live-fire cooking: candy-coated grilled pork ribs; crosshatched bits of grilled squid served with a tart green dipping sauce; and all the traditional satays. 5267 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, (323) 466-6722, www.redcornerasia.com. Open daily 11 a.m.–2 a.m. Beer and wine. Takeout. Valet parking on weekends. AE, MC, V. Asian Fusion. JG $$$
Mid-Wilshire/Koreatown/Central Los Angeles O-Dae San. This is the grandest fish restaurant in Koreatown, a vast, sleek space with a Korean-style sushi bar running the length of the dining room. The private dining rooms are sumptuous. There are massive live halibut in the sushi tanks and subtleties to O-Dae San’s long menu that we won’t even try to address, because we can rarely tear ourselves away from the ever-fascinating al bap, a big bowl of sushi rice frosted — frosted! — with a half-dozen different kinds of fish eggs, laid out in contrasting streaks radiating from a plop of creamy sea-urchin roe at the center of the bowl like rays from the sun. 2889 W. Olympic Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 383-9800. Open daily 11 a.m.–10 p.m. Beer and wine. Takeout. Lot parking. AE, MC, V. Korean. JG $$
Tahoe Galbi. Natural-charcoal barbecue, which is to say the atavistic pleasure of grilling meat over live coals, is traditionally a cheap thrill. Such barbecuing as practiced at fancier Korean restaurants is usually done over well-ventilated gas grills, which are much less likely to leave your favorite blouse perforated with tiny holes like a silk colander. The marble-encrusted Tahoe Galbi may be the first place in town where it is possible to enjoy both the superb meat characteristic of the best Korean restaurants and the smoky kick of live-fire cooking. When you bite into the galbi, Korean short ribs, they flood your mouth with sweet juice. 3986 Wilshire Blvd., Los Angeles, (213) 365-9000. Daily 11:30 a.m.–11 p.m. Beer and wine. Takeout. Valet parking. Korean Barbecue. JG $Taylor’s Steak House. The filet mignon here is soft, buttery, as rare as you order it, and crusted with char; the New York steak is beefy and rich; London broil, kind of stewy-tasting, comes sliced, with a horseradish and sour-cream sauce on the side. But the glory of Taylor’s is the culotte steak, a softball-shaped prime thing cut from the top of the sirloin. If you order it rare, the interior is scarlet, dripping juice, marbled with fat, full of the tremendous mineral sourness of great meat. It’s the steak that time forgot. 3361 W. Eighth St., Los Angeles, (213) 382-8449. Open daily for lunch 11:30 a.m.–4 p.m. and dinner 4–10 p.m. Full bar. Valet parking. AE, CB, DC, MC, V. American. JG $
West Hollywood/La Cienega A.O.C. If Suzanne Goin’s wine bar weren’t quite so popular, it would be the kind of place you dropped into for a glass of vino and maybe a bit of octopus, then a glass of Sancerre and a few grilled sardines, then a glass of Friulian Tocai and a plate of sliced prosciutto, then a glass of Corbières and the tiniest plate of skewered grilled lamb with mint. Unless you were in the mood for the bacon-wrapped dates with Parmesan on the bar menu, which would go so nicely with one of those big southern Italian reds, or a ripe Crozier blue with a late-bottled port, or whatever creature comes with a bit of Goin’s romesco sauce. 8022 W. Third St., Los Angeles, (323) 653-6359. Mon.–Fri. 6–11 p.m., Sat. 5:30–11 p.m., Sun. 5:30–10 p.m. Wine bar. Valet parking. AE, DC, MC, V. French-Mediterranean-influenced small plates. JG $$
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