Loading...

First Bite: Bridge 

Wednesday, May 10 2006
Comments
“Would you recommend Barolo with the swordfish? Pinot Grigio? Something like Chardonnay?’’ The dude shuts the massive wine list with a sigh and looks up at the glowing Pilates balls hanging from the ceiling as if the answer is contained within. “Oh, to hell with it,’’ he says. “Bring me a Grey Goose. On the rocks with a twist.’’ Bridge is the newest restaurant from the group that owns Koi, which means that the music is banging, the guy at the next table really is Ludacris, complete with posse, and that the food, pan-peninsular Italian in this case, tends to be light, based on impeccable ingredients, and lovely to behold: thin petals of vitello tonnato arranged like fugu sashimi; delicate asparagus ravioli with butter and sage; a truly lovely, Koi-quality tuna tartare. The quality of the cooking here will never quite measure up to that of the glorious prime of Alto Palato, which used to occupy its space, but the cuisine created by Dolce alum Mirko Paderno can be almost as sparkling as the crowd. 755 N. La Cienega Blvd., West Hollywood, (310) 659-3535, www.bridgela.com.

Related Stories

  • Weho's History Problem 8

    Plans to build a massive mixed-use development in West Hollywood's Melrose Triangle have been slowed — thanks to some surprising information about a historic building on the site that had been hidden in plain sight. The Charles Company, a development firm owned by Arman Gabay, hoped to build on a...
  • Smoke.Oil.Salt Review: Spanish Tapas in WeHo 4

    Spanish food has a problem in its American translation. It's not that we don't want to love it — we do. Certain aspects of the cuisine have even become annoyingly ubiquitous (small plates, anyone?). But the long, rollicking meal that stretches past midnight, which exists mostly as a series of...
  • Buy L.A?

    The folks at real estate website Redfin recently embarked on a fun experiment. They looked at the richest people in America, as ranked by Forbes magazine, and matched them to cities where they could buy all the homes, townhouses and condos. Lucky for us, none of them is rich enough to buy every non-rental residential...
  • Gluten Free Pizza!

    Pizza is something that invariably inspires heated debate.  Lately, it seems only one other thing invites such passionate argument: gluten. The gluten protein is what gives wheat dough its structure, loft and elasticity.  Which is why trying to find a really good gluten-free pizza has always been like looking for unicorns...
  • The Lavender Menace

    @ West Hollywood Park

Related Content

Now Trending

Slideshows

  • Ramen Yokocho Festival in Little Tokyo
    Little Tokyo in downtown Los Angeles became a ramen paradise over the weekend as part of the Japanese cultural festival Nisei Week. Everything was hot -- from the food, to the weather, to the scene. All photos by Danny Liao.
  • Pollo Loco at ChocoChicken
    ChocoChicken is a restaurant dedicated to chocolate-flavored chicken. It sounds like a joke. And when Adam Fleischman, founder of the Umami empire and monetary force behind many other L.A. restaurants, announced in January that he’d be opening a concept based not around mole but actual, yes, chocolate-flavored chicken, many of us treated it as a joke. It is not.
  • Daw Yee: Mission of Burma
    L.A. has a very small pool of Burmese restaurants; among them, Daw Yee does not boast the most extensive menu. Nonetheless, Daw Yee, in Monterey Park, is fascinating for one big reason — namely, that it gives L.A. something unusual: a Burmese restaurant that caters to younger diners.