9. Copper River salmon.You may have never heard cat owners talk about their pets with half the affection Kiriko chef Ken Namba uses to describe his Copper River king salmon in season, beautiful, shiny fish whose flesh is so luxuriously heavy with oil that it tastes almost surreally alive. Namba smokes his salmon over smoldering cherrywood, slices it thick and wraps it around spears of ripe mango: The sashimi is soft and luscious, salty and sweet, penetratingly smoky yet delicate — one of the most magnificent mouthfuls of food imaginable. 11301 Olympic Blvd., No. 102, West Los Angeles, (310) 478-7769.
10. Camarones a la piedra, a warm shrimp ceviche popular on the tropical northern coast of Peru, is a formidable plate of seafood, at least in the version served at Los Balcones del Peru, right across the street from the ArcLight complex: shrimp tinted a violent taxicab-yellow with pureed amarillo chiles, propped up with cylinders of boiled Peruvian tubers, and only just cooked through, so the bare, slippery crunch of the crustaceans plays about the stolid, claylike chaw of the yuca like a ballerina dancing about a marble column. It is easy to envision a $24 plate of camarones a la piedra at Koi or Sona, but it is hard to imagine the extra expense making the shrimp any more delicious. 1360 N. Vine St., Hollywood, (323) 871-9600.?