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Lives of the Carnies

On the road with the Cleanest Show in the West

Carol sends in the clowns at the water race - The Equalizer.

“It’s a totally different lifestyle here,” he says. “I used to be really ashamed of myself out here last year. You’re labeled out here, ‘fricking carny,’ you know? A lot of women don’t like the thought of going out with a carny or whatever, but I ain’t had no trouble. And I cooked during the off-season. Most people collect food stamps, go camp out in Yuma, and waste a life. I worked, put money in the bank. I made the best of my situation. I lifted weights; I’m so strong right now, it’s unbelievable. I guarantee you there’s not another carny out here in the physical shape I am. Check this out.” He flexes and admires his calf muscle. “Yeah, I probably won’t be here next year,” he says. “Still, I came back on my own terms; I came back because I wanted to come back. And they welcomed me. The money ain’t all that good, but, hey, compared to all the fun I’m gonna have and all the fun I’m gonna give?” By noon, it’s 95 degrees, and the air is strung with fat from colossal onion rings and Kettle Corn, deep-fried Snickers bars and bratwurst, churros and calamari, Hot Dogs on a Stick, gyros, egg rolls, funnel cakes, barbecue, nachos, curly fries, and “the best pies you’ll ever eat!” “In this business, anybody with ambition can get somewhere,” says Kelsey, one of Butler’s unit managers. He stands by a Sno-Cone booth, answering calls on his Nextel. “[We’re] always looking for people who are willing to work, and that’s the whole thing.” While Kelsey doesn’t look like the other carnies — he’s spruce in a sport shirt and Dockers — he, too, got into the business the old-fashioned way. “My wife divorced me,” says the 46-year-old. “This was the ’70s, when the woman took everything. I just started hitchhiking. One of [Butler’s] drivers, hauling a ride to another spot, picked me up and asked me if I wanted a job. I was 25. My first job was as a ride operator; I was foreman of the Skydiver.” Unlike most carnies, Kelsey saved his money; he now owns a ride, several games, and a house in Northern California, where he lives with his new family during the off-season. As for carnies’ bad rep, Kelsey says it’s mostly myth. “Everybody — well, not everybody, but a lot of the public — thinks carnival people are scum; they’re all drug addicts, the whole thing. But it’s not that way at all. They’re just people who want to work. And a lot of these people out here, they can’t handle a 9-to-5 job. If I had to work in an office, forget it, I’d go nuts! Look at how many suckers there are out there. What, 70, 80 percent of the people working in the United States hate their jobs? If you can find a job you love, which is the name of the game, you got it licked. “But you gotta like people,” he adds. “If you don’t like people, this is not the job for you. Entertaining the public, that’s what we do. I mean, we don’t get paid like movie stars, but we entertain a lot of people. Millions.” “Idon’t think there’s any bigger [carnival] in the world,” says Earl “Butch” Butler, owner of Butler Amusements, sitting behind a huge desk in his air-conditioned office at the back of a double-wide trailer. Butler, 62, has been in the business since age 13, when he joined his father in operating games on several carnivals through the Midwest, and is the former president of the Showman’s League of America. “I look at Christmas as being the top event of the year, and I try to do that with my carnival,” he says. “All the rides kind of glitter like a Christmas tree, and the excitement that we give people, we’re trying to make it feel the same way as Christmas. They get a lot of thrills, and presents and toys, and win prizes and that type of thing.” In addition to playing Santa to 15 million visitors annually, Butler — who is also as big as Santa — takes care of the steady stream of employees who file in with a question or a form that needs signing; the high school seniors to whom he gives college scholarships; his four grown daughters and their spouses, all of whom work for the carnival; his current wife, who works as his administrative assistant; and his ex-wife and her new husband, office manager and fun-house owner, respectively. And then there’s OSHA (Occupational Safety and Health Administration) to deal with, and state inspections, and the competition. But the biggest part of the carnival, he says, “is the people, [and] a lot of them are like kids, you know. In a family, you have a large variety, and in some cases we have to be the mother and father and give direction. Some of these kids haven’t had good directions, and they’re not even insulted when you tell them, ‘Go get a haircut; go shave.’ They won’t get any money unless they shave and they’re clean. “You shouldn’t have to do that; these are grown people. A lot of the kids are from broken homes and have really been knocked around pretty hard, and they find a community here where people are working together, and we try to pat them on their backs and tell them they’re doing a nice job, which they are. They’re keeping their rides clean, and some of them don’t even know how to clean. I went out there yesterday, and they’re cleaning down there, and up above it’s dirty as heck, and I say, ‘Didn’t your mother ever teach you how to clean? You start at the top!’ You just have to work with them. We sort them out and try to help them, and usually it works out pretty well. “When we come into town with a fair as large as this, we’ll have to hire an extra 50 people. You put to work some people who haven’t been working for a while; it’s a helpful thing. And then we do drug testing, so everybody on the rides are all drug-tested. That’s only been the last three years or so, and it’s helped. We lost three or four people that we wished . . . that we really cared about. It surprises you sometimes. “The rides don’t eat or have personalities, it’s the people who really are what sells this show,” he says. “We make memories that last a lifetime, and we want them to be good, safe, friendly memories; we work so hard at that. You don’t find longhairs out there, you don’t find beards; I’m pushing so that I have a better appearance. Maybe I’m going beyond what some people think I should do, but I feel like the carnival’s somewhat got a strike against us before we come, so I’m trying to put it on a better scale.” On his break from the Eagle 16, Rick walks past the main stage — where Paul Revere, wearing the same Revolutionary War outfit he wore in the ’60s, and his current band of Raiders play “Cherokee People” — and directly to the trailer that sells lotto tickets. He buys scratchers and plays keno, winning $8 and losing $12. During the course of his 90-minute break, he will visit the lotto trailer three times. “I have nothing else to do with my time and money,” he says, one eye squinting from the smoke of his hand-rolled cigarette, smoke that’s left a hazel streak in his push-broom mustache. “After work, I’ll drink beers, or not, and if there’s a casino in the vicinity, I might go.” Last night, he lost more than $100 at Fantasy Springs Casino. “It doesn’t matter,” he says. Rick continues across the midway, past the vendors selling machine-made dream-catchers and black-velvet paintings of Indian maidens; past where a magician billed as the Great Zucchini tries to sell a chubby boy a retracting dollar bill. He stops in the shade of the fairgrounds’ Taj Mahal Building, where a few little kids turn somersaults on a patch of grass. “The only thing I know about carnivals is Butler, and I got no reason to move on,” he says, smoking continuously as he watches the kids. “I’ve had people ask me why I’ve stayed. My reputation spreads around. In the carnival business, people know who’s who. They see how you operate and know what I’m capable of. There are not a lot of Ferris wheels; it’s a select few who operate them. I’m probably the best at it in the country. You have to coordinate its weight, move it around, make sure people aren’t banging and screaming and yelling; you have to deal with disgruntled customers, fixing the ride, maintaining it. There’s a whole lot of stuff involved, and that’s what I do.” As with Brenda, Brad and Kelsey, Rick’s coming to the carnival was precipitated by hard times: He says he found his wife with another man. “I left the house in Hartford to my wife and kids; I didn’t want them growing up in an apartment building. Then my divorce came, and I couldn’t maintain financially,” he says. “I got to Santa Monica on New Year’s Eve. I’d had $1,800 in my pocket a couple of weeks before, and now I had $1.80. I walked into a restaurant, had a glass of champagne, and wondered, where am I going to sleep tonight? I wound up in a culvert with a couple of panhandlers, and spent the winter in a shelter. Butler was coming through for the [Oxnard] Strawberry Festival, and I went for the setup, and thought, a year, what the heck. I had nothing going. People come [to the carnival] with stories: Something happened, they’re not getting ahead with an occupation, they don’t want any neck breathing or clock punching. The carnival has its regimen, but if the weather is nice, it’s okay.” Though he sprang for a bunkhouse this year, Rick usually camps out. “I slept outside for nine years. I camp out under the rides. Kids come running through and wake you up, but that’s the way of the carnival. I pulled out four teeth myself; you got no time for pain out here. The strong go on, and the weak fall to the side. Some people can’t handle the crowds and the heat; they’re not really built for mechanical things, but they have no place to go, so they come here and don’t survive. I’ve put a half-million people on this ride in 10 years, and only a handful of complaints. I’ve saved people from emergencies and hydraulic malfunctions; I’ve grabbed seats and stopped them from flipping.” Listening to Rick talk about his prowess with the wheel is like watching someone keep a bubble afloat by blowing on it. “I’d like to go to a living situation that wasn’t just survival. I have plans beyond the carnival, but I don’t think they’ll ever occur. I’m a fine-arts artist, still life. I had a painting in the New York Graphic Society; they print all the great artists that ever lived. It was called Floral Still Life, and it was under my real name, Ryszard Ploskonka. [Note: The NYGS has no such painting or artist currently listed.] But I had an injury and couldn’t hold a pen.” What sort of injury? “I can’t talk about it,” he says, and casts a look meant to insinuate some lingering danger or mystery, a look that says, I was important, but circumstances prevent me from going into detail. “I’m one of the best artists in the world; my painting was printed with Renoir, Monet, Rembrandt. And I don’t even sketch at all now. My life absolutely, totally changed. Right now, I should have a studio with a clientele paying $10,000 for my paintings; experts valued my work at $1,000 at the time. And I didn’t need motivation; I just painted. “I wanted to be successful for my children, so they could live well and be proud of themselves. They know what I do for a living now, and they’re proud of it, I guess. How many people know someone with the occupation of a Ferris wheel operator?” Rick pauses, and watches the kids run away, toward a rocket ride. “I lost 20 years of my art,” he says. “That’s more a loss than I’ve provided anyone with the Ferris wheel. The gallery contacted me two years ago, wanting to know what I’m doing. I didn’t want to tell them I was sleeping outside with a paintbrush. My whole life has been disassociated. Holidays, birthdays . . . early on, yes; now, it’s not happening. I cut all ties, but I had no choices. They weren’t going to be tied up again.” It’s time for Rick to get back. “I don’t want to die here with this piece of equipment,” he says. “I want to die with a paintbrush in my hand. That’s who I am.” Underneath a full moon, the Datefest’s production of Scheherazade is under way. On the outdoor main stage, before a crowd of perhaps 2,000, a troop of relentlessly peppy performers belts out “Arabian Nights” from the movie Aladdin, with dance moves worthy of the Osmonds. On the outskirts of the field, amid overflowing trash cans, a few beery guys are passed out in the grass. Teenage girls cruise the midway in halter tops, hugging themselves, too invested in looking cute to put on a jacket. A few families stop in to wave night-night to the baby animals in the stinky petting zoo; other sleeping children are carried by their parents straight to the parking lot. It’s been a long day, one that for most won’t be repeated until the carnival pulls into town next year. For others, the year is just beginning. “I need some players, I need some shooters,” says Carol, who works the booth closest to the exit — a last chance for fun. “The more players we get, the bigger the prize,” she sings. “Grab a gun, let’s water race!” Less than 5 feet tall and probably 90 pounds after eating a bunch of bananas, she climbs on the counter. “Someone has to win,” she says, and shakes a giant Sponge Bob at three young boys, who step up to the pistols. “I’m a showman,” says Carol, as she fixes balloons onto the metal nipples that poke from the mouths of the game’s ceramic clowns. “You give me $2 and I’m here to entertain you for five minutes. That’s the whole thing.” She sets the timer, the bell starts blaring, and the kids fire their guns. “I love the water race because it’s an equalizer,” says Carol. “One time, I had a whole line of rodeo riders who thought they were hot stuff. Little girl 3 years old won. Ha!” The littlest boy’s balloon pops. Carol hands him a tiny stuffed dog, and urges the boys to play again, to try to trade up for a better prize; they do. “I have eight kids,” says Carol, replacing the balloons, setting the timer. “When my youngest was 18, I had empty nest and I’d never got to travel. I went to the California State Fair and helped out, and just thought I’d do that fair. That was 13 years ago.” A different kid wins, and the boys take off. “Me and my husband travel by truck, with our cat,” says Carol. “And we stay in motels, too, when it gets too hot — for the cat’s sake.” “She’s worth $2,” Carol calls to a pair of young lovers; she oinks a fluffy pink pig in their direction. They laugh and walk on. “I don’t know how long I’ll keep doing it. I really enjoy it,” she says. “I have people bring their kids to the fair each year and especially look for me. You watch these kids grow up — it’s like having 10,000 grandkids. The only drawback lately has been the mood of the country; people are more cautious. But they still want to have a good time.” Carol once more replaces the balloons. “Come on, I need a couple more players, who wants to play?” she calls. “Water race, water fun.” A late-arriving family steps up; Mom props her son on her knee so he can grab the pistol. Carol sets the timer, and the bell blares.
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