On the way out of the Old City, I stopped at Moses Art Restaurant. The owner, Mousa Alqaq, sat outside smoking cigarettes. He was within 50 yards of a voting station but hadn’t bothered to enter. "Business has been killed here for years, my friend," he said. "So it’s kind of making a joke to vote. For whom? For people making millions of dollars in their pockets, to have 10 Mercedes? So what do we need them for?"