Ask Mr. Gold 

Thursday, Oct 14 2004

QUESTION: Last week you wrote about what sounded like some really good mozzarella. I like mozzarella — I come from the part of New Jersey where mozzarella is more a delicious milk-soaked sponge than the art-gum erasers that seem to be called mozzarella out here. But you neglected to mention any restaurants where you could actually taste the good stuff.

—Jerry, Los Angeles

ANSWER: When you want to taste good mozzarella, but the idea of cutting it up yourself seems a little too arduous, you could always stop by the Monday-night mozzarella bar at the newly remodeled Jar, where guest chef Nancy Silverton presides over an assortment of ultrafresh organic mozzarella, buffalo-milk mozzarella, burrata, bocconcini, ricotta and other oozing mozzarella-related substances. (This gig may make Silverton, who also hosts Campanile’s renowned grilled-cheese night, the food-world equivalent of an itinerant club DJ floating from venue to venue on specified nights of the week — except her crates are filled with cheese instead of white-label Belgian-beat platters.) The concept, based loosely on the format of a bar near the Pantheon in Rome, includes mozzarella paired with heirloom tomatoes, served on grilled bread with bitter radicchio, poached in a smoky broth enriched with roasted tomatoes, and fried in carrozza, among other things, and afterward you get a shot at Suzanne Tracht’s banana cream pie. Jar, 8225 Beverly Blvd.,(323) 655-6566.

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