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What To Eat Now: The Year's Best Dishes

Comments (0) By Jonathan Gold Thursday, Dec 25 2003
...continued from page 1

10 Fried chicken. At any hour of the day or night, come rain, sun or choking, ozone-rich smog, crowds line up at Pollo Campero in the La Curacao department store, the first local branch of the Guatemalan chain, for buckets of the peppery, garlicky deep-fried chicken, sort of halfway between Popeye’s and KFC, that may be Central America’s most important cultural import since the marimba band. Is this the best fried chicken in Los Angeles? Not even close. But you can smell the revolution in the air.

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