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Fajita pitas, Octopus Tacos, and the Birth of California Cuisine

25 moments — over 25 years — in L.A. restaurants

25 Vida, whose partners include two-thirds of the Beastie Boys and the guy who manages Nirvana, is persuaded by one of its regular customers to rent the tiny private banquet room out as a set for a high-budget porno film. “You should hang out and watch,” the star giggles to chef Fred Eric. “I’m doing my very first anal.”

Ginza Sushiko, or at least its chef, Masa Takayama, moves to Manhattan. Which means that the best sushi bar in the country is no longer in Los Angeles. Bummer.

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