Because as much as one might crave the specific succor of juicy barbecued pork, or grilled bell peppers stuffed with fish cake, or the delightful, freshly made warm tofu carefully spooned out of rolling vats, the yearning quickly vanishes when the next cart rolls down the aisle. Dim sum is the perfect food for the age of attention-deficit order: At a dim sum meal, the only rule is: More is more.
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