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Leaving the restaurant, we paused in the den, inhaled the fragrance of big white lilies, sneaked a few candied pecans from bowls on the table, and had a mad thought of sitting down and having a whole other Opaline experience -- the small dishes and drinks one. We decided to delay indulging that particular desire. Given the evidence -- the gliding service, the pretty rooms, Lentz‘s intelligent and hearty cooking -- Opaline will be around for a long time to come.

Opaline, 7450 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles; (323) 857-6725. Open Mon.--Fri. 11:30 a.m.--2:30 p.m. and Mon.--Sat. 5:30 --11:30 p.m. Entrees $16--$23. Full bar. Valet parking. AE, DC, MC, V.

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