Ask Mr. Gold

Q: Where have you been going for dim sum lately?

—Y. Ramirez,
Silver Lake

A:Seaworld, a palace of ziggurats and chandeliers and fish tanks, is neither the best nor the worst Cantonese seafood restaurant in town, but the dim sum has been great lately — trays of glistening baked pork buns; chile-spiked stews of tripe and various tubes; rich constructs of whitefish braised with Virginia ham; fat, pale dumplings stuffed with an intensely green mince of vegetables, with shrimp and pork, or fresh scallops. The slippery chow fun noodles are totally gooey, halfway between solid and liquid. Griddle carts circulate the room, preceded by wafts of their sweetly fragrant smoke. Even the deep-fried stuff is good — big platters of golden-crusted tofu or salt-and-pepper shrimp. And the wait is a fraction of what you’d have to endure at Empress Pavilion. Seaworld, 8118 E. Garvey Ave., Rosemead, (626) 288-2898.

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