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Comments (0) Wednesday, Sep 18 2002

Photo by Anne Fishbein

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Lucques

8474 Melrose Ave.
West Hollywood, CA 90069

Category: Restaurant > California

Region: West Hollywood

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Question: It’s the height of tomato season. Where can I find the ultimate BLT?

—J.R. Hogg, Torrance

Answer: A BLT, a small essay in the crisp and the tart, is forgiving of industrial-grade bacon and hard, sour tomatoes, of toasted Wonder Bread and bargain-brand mayonnaise. The meat is there basically to provide a jolt of salt, and the rich mayonnaise to temper the acids of the unripe fruit. But in the last afternoons of summer, it is normal to expect a little bit more from a BLT, not least because it is the only time of year you can really count on the "T." So, you want to pay a little more for your BLT: Farmers-market tomatoes and artisanal bacon are expensive and hard to come by, but at this time of year, the realized squishy perfection is worth every dime. It is hard to imagine a better BLT than the $12 version served at Lucques during lunch — organic Niman Ranch bacon, bits of avocado, and super-ripe, singingly beautiful tomatoes neatly layered between slabs of toasted brioche. Lucques’ BLT, simply put, tastes like summer. Lucques appears in the Hollywood section of the List.

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