Splitsville
As the tables turn
Pizza with lightly spicy shrimp is actually wholly bland. That tired old standard, crispy whitefish, is also bland and a bit muddy. Spaghetti aglio olio (a classic pasta dressed with olive oil, garlic, red-pepper flakes) is here inexplicably swamped in melted butter. Gross. A slow-cooked Venetian beef stew on a veritable mountain of polenta fails to excite. Nor does dessert necessarily redeem these meals; the chocolate souffle comes close, but both the pear tartin and raspberry tart are halfhearted experiments in puff pastry.
Will De Mori’s charm finesse the difficulties of his location and kitchen? Will Bosc educate and amass his own following of red-blooded bistro gourmands? Only time will tell.
Location Info
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Mimosa
8009 Beverly Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90048-4503
Category: Restaurant > Bistro
Region: Melrose/ Beverly/ Fairfax
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Mimosa, 8009 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles; (323) 655-8895. Dinner Tues.--Sat. 6--10:30 p.m. Entrees $11--$26. Beer and wine. Valet parking. AE, MC, V.
De Mori, 421 N. Rodeo Drive, Beverly Hills; (310) 274-1500. Lunch and dinner seven days 11 a.m.--mid. Entrees $10.50--$16.50. Beer and wine. Complimentary valet parking. AE, MC, V.
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