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Spago Jr.

The dessert menu is appealingly large, with something for everyone, although I mostly crave the Italian doughnuts, served with almond ice cream. But the molten-centered chocolate souffle cake is proof that, all evidence to the contrary, civilization does at times ascend. While the tangerine granita has a more shardlike than an ideal pebbly texture, its flavor sings; combined with vanilla gelato, it’s a 5050 bar for the 21st century.

Hefter‘s unabashedly full-flavored food, the terrific service -- not too constant, not too distant -- the many pages borrowed from Puck’s past triumphs, the flagrant play for quality and pleasure all make Vert a happy place to be. As for the music? We can live with it. If we have to.

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Hollywood & Highland Center

6801 Hollywood Blvd.
Los Angeles, CA 90028

Category: Community Venues

Region: Hollywood

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Hollywood and Highland, Hollywood; (323) 491-1300. Open seven days for lunch and dinner. Full bar. Entrees $10--$24. Parking in underground lot ($2 first four hours). Major credit cards.

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