Mimosa. This classy, casual bistro has its ups and downs, but catch chef Jean Pierre Bosc on an upswing and you won’t eat better regional French food, from the complimentary earthy black olives and cornichons to Bosc’s sensuous tomato tart, hearty cassoulet and hangar steak frites. The dining-room walls set the standard for “bistro yellow”; the plastic-wrapped sidewalk patio isn’t nearly as charming. The terrific bouillabaisse is available Fridays and Saturdays only. 8009 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 655-8895. Dinner Tues.–Sat. 6–11 p.m. Beer and wine. Valet parking. AE, MC, V. Entrées $13.50–$24. French Bistro. MH $
Musso & Frank Grill. The warm scent of wood smoke spreads across the room. You push away the remains of a perfect caesar salad. A red-jacketed waiter comes over and pours a clear, cold martini, Hollywood’s best, from a pony into a tiny frosted glass, then carefully spoons Welsh rarebit — rich and warm, if a little grainy — from a metal salver onto crustless toast. Here in these worn wooden booths beneath the ancient hunt-scene wallpaper, this seems very much the perfect gentleman’s lunch. 6667 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, (323) 467-7788. Open Tues.–Sat. 11 a.m.–11 p.m. Full bar. Validated parking in rear. AE, DC, MC, V. Entrées $15–$32. American.JG $ ¤ ‹Ü
Location Info
Map
Ciudad
445 S. Figueroa St.
Los Angeles, CA 90071
Category: Bars/Clubs
Region: Downtown
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Pastis. Pastis is more country-French than its nearby rival, the urbane Mimosa. Despite the constantly changing chefs — the good ones have been plucked like grapes by bigger restaurants — the kitchen turns out reliably good, quality French food. The tables are a little tight, but I’ve made friends with people sharing the banquette. Look for the comforting, traditional roast leg of lamb with flageolets, a classic deep-bowled frisée aux lardons and lavender-scented crème brûlée. 8114 Beverly Blvd., Los Angeles, (323) 655-8822. Dinner Mon.–Fri. 6–10 p.m., Sat.–Sun. to 11 p.m. Beer and wine. Valet parking on weekends. AE, MC, V. Entrées $12–$20. French Bistro. MH $
Pink’s. Consider the Pink’s dog, uncouth and garlicky, skin thick and taut, so that when you sink your teeth into it, the sausage . . . pops . . . into a mouthful of juice. The bun is soft enough to achieve a oneness with the thick chili that is ladled over the dog, but firm enough to resist dissolving altogether, unless you order it with sauerkraut. And why wouldn’t you? 709 N. La Brea Ave., Hollywood, (323) 931-4223 (no phone orders). Open Sun.–Thurs. 9:30 a.m.–2 a.m., Fri.–Sat. 9:30 a.m.–3 a.m. No alcohol. Lot parking. Takeout. Cash only. Dogs $3–$6. American.JG ¢* H
Ruen Pair Thai. At Ruen Pair Thai, there are actually two menus: one the standard pad Thai/cashew-chicken sheet that non-Thais are pretty much automatically given, the other a yellow four-page menu that lists the preserved-egg salad, the pork fried with Chinese olives, and the simmered goose that made the restaurant famous. At 2 a.m., everybody is eating more or less the same thing: flat, crisp Thai omelets, and morning-glory stems fried with an immoderate amount of garlic. 5257 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, (323) 466-0153. 11 a.m.–4 a.m. daily. No alcohol. Lot parking. Cash only. Entrées $4.95–$7.95. Thai. JG ¢* H
Sanamluang Café.Sanamluang is a Thai place to duck into and out of at 3 a.m. after the clubs close for vast plates of rice fried with mint leaves, seafood and chiles; for big, comforting bowls of chicken soup flavored with toasted garlic; and for wide noodles fried with Chinese broccoli and shiitake mushrooms. Truly extraordinary is the general’s noodle soup: thin, garlicky egg noodles garnished with bits of duck, barbecued pork, crumbles of ground pork and a couple of shrimp, submerged in a clean, clear broth. 5176 Hollywood Blvd., Hollywood, (323) 660-8006. Open daily 9 a.m.–4 a.m. No alcohol. Lot parking. Cash only. Entrées $5–$10. Thai.JG ¢* H
Zankou. The chicken sandwiches are good at Zankou; so are the falafel and the shawarma carved off the rotating spit. But the spit-roasted chickens, golden, crisp-skinned and juicy, are what you want. Such chicken really needs no embellishment, but a little bit of Zankou’s fierce, blinding-white garlic sauce couldn’t hurt. 5065 Sunset Blvd., East Hollywood, (323) 665-7842. 1415 E. Colorado Blvd., Glendale, (818) 244-2237. 5658 Sepulveda Blvd., Van Nuys, (818) 781-0615. 1296 E. Colorado Blvd., Pasadena, (626) 405-1502. 10 a.m.–mid. seven days. No alcohol. Lot parking. Cash only. Entrées $2.25–$7.50. Middle Eastern/Armenian.JG ¢*
Mid-Wilshire/Koreatown
Central Los Angeles
Bu San. Korean-style raw sea cucumber is like nothing you’ve ever tasted before, and Korean-style sashimi, which you wrap in a lettuce leaf with raw garlic, sliced chiles and bean paste, is a revelation. The chefs are fond of converting live fish from the tanks into a meal’s worth of demonstrably fresh sashimi. Raw squid, luxuriously creamy, with a small bit of crunch at the center, only tastes alive. Although almost alarmingly so. 203 N. Western Ave., Los Angeles, (323) 871-0703. Open daily for lunch and dinner. Beer and wine. Lot parking. MC, V. Entrées $25–$30. Korean.JG $$
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